Megan Racing Coilover Install Question
02-09-2009, 07:53 AM
#1
Megan Racing Coilover Install Question
The instructions on these coilovers are lacking information, so I have a few questions prior to install.
When preloading the springs by tightening the nut down, how do I know how far to go? Do I screw the nut to where it compresses the spring around an inch, and then back it out?
Currently, the spring has no pressure on it. I can turn it freely with a little effort. Once I preload it, do I back the nut back out to where it turns freely again and tighten the lock nut, then install?
If not, how many turns beyond the loose position should I tighten it before installation? I've heard this is one cause of clunking and rattling sounds, so I want to get it right.
Also, kind of off topic, but on the sway bar, I noticed two separate mounting positions on each side of the car a few inches apart with nuts that hold it in place to the lower A-arm. The bolt head is not visible...just four round circles on the opposite side of the nut. I noticed that one of these nuts is not tight. When I try to tighten it, the bolt turns as well, but there's nothing to hold onto since the head is not visible and is somewhere inside the rubber boot. Does this need to be tight?
Thanks!
When preloading the springs by tightening the nut down, how do I know how far to go? Do I screw the nut to where it compresses the spring around an inch, and then back it out?
Currently, the spring has no pressure on it. I can turn it freely with a little effort. Once I preload it, do I back the nut back out to where it turns freely again and tighten the lock nut, then install?
If not, how many turns beyond the loose position should I tighten it before installation? I've heard this is one cause of clunking and rattling sounds, so I want to get it right.
Also, kind of off topic, but on the sway bar, I noticed two separate mounting positions on each side of the car a few inches apart with nuts that hold it in place to the lower A-arm. The bolt head is not visible...just four round circles on the opposite side of the nut. I noticed that one of these nuts is not tight. When I try to tighten it, the bolt turns as well, but there's nothing to hold onto since the head is not visible and is somewhere inside the rubber boot. Does this need to be tight?
Thanks!
02-09-2009, 12:22 PM
#2
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It sounds to me like your are misunderstanding the purpose of preloading. Preloading springs on a coilover can become a very complicated subject, and it may be in your best interest to research it a bit. If you are just lowering your car for looks and basic driving, however, here is what I can tell you:
MOST coilovers do not "need" to have any preload. In this case, you simply screw the upper perch all the way up to the bottom of the spring, tight enough so that the spring doesn't move. Any tighter than that and you'll be preloading it. You mentioned that you can turn the spring with a little effort. This seems correct, however I prefer to have my perches a bit tighter than that (so the spring can not be moved easily by hand), but as long as the spring is not able to move up and down, you're okay.
If when you get the coilovers installed on the car, and the ride feels super harsh, or you know for sure you're hitting the bump stops, then you'll want to take them back off and preload the spring. This is when it gets a bit more complicated, and you'll want to have done your research.
MOST coilovers do not "need" to have any preload. In this case, you simply screw the upper perch all the way up to the bottom of the spring, tight enough so that the spring doesn't move. Any tighter than that and you'll be preloading it. You mentioned that you can turn the spring with a little effort. This seems correct, however I prefer to have my perches a bit tighter than that (so the spring can not be moved easily by hand), but as long as the spring is not able to move up and down, you're okay.
If when you get the coilovers installed on the car, and the ride feels super harsh, or you know for sure you're hitting the bump stops, then you'll want to take them back off and preload the spring. This is when it gets a bit more complicated, and you'll want to have done your research.
02-10-2009, 06:45 AM
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I just installed my Megan coilovers also and I didnt lower it enough. And it seems like a lot of work to lower it while the coilovers are on the car...I think you have to take the control arm bolt out to be able to adjust height (I think?). Make sure your height is good before you button it up.
I put only enough tension on the spring to keep it from moving, roughly afew turns from snug.
I put only enough tension on the spring to keep it from moving, roughly afew turns from snug.
02-10-2009, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Bull,Feb 10 2009, 11:45 AM
I just installed my Megan coilovers also and I didnt lower it enough. And it seems like a lot of work to lower it while the coilovers are on the car...I think you have to take the control arm bolt out to be able to adjust height (I think?). Make sure your height is good before you button it up.
I put only enough tension on the spring to keep it from moving, roughly afew turns from snug.
I put only enough tension on the spring to keep it from moving, roughly afew turns from snug.
02-10-2009, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tjs S2k,Feb 10 2009, 01:28 PM
I have never heard of coilovers to adjust that way. I thought you just had to jack up the car and move the adjusters...
02-10-2009, 06:48 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Tjs S2k,Feb 10 2009, 09:28 AM
I have never heard of coilovers to adjust that way. I thought you just had to jack up the car and move the adjusters...
The instructions show to loosen the lower perch nut at the bottom and twist the lower end of the coilover to screw it up or down for height adjustment. I'm not sure how this can be done without removing the bottom mount from the control arm.
As posted above and as in the instructions, it's not recommended to adjust height by turning the upper perch nut that compresses the spring. This is the only adjustment I see possible without removing the coilover.
As far as my original post goes, I got the front two in as recommended and will hopefully get the back in tomorrow. I didn't really see how to accurate estimate the drop prior to install, so I just put it around halfway and installed. I dropped it down and then measured the distance I wanted to change it for the desired ride height, and changed the length of threads showing on the coilover by that amount. It's not too hard to reinstall after you know the routine (15 minutes) and it gets it right where you want it.
The sway bar link nut actually had a hex key in the end of the bolt to hold for tightening.
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02-10-2009, 07:59 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by s2kvince,Feb 10 2009, 08:48 PM
How do you adjust the height this way?
The instructions show to loosen the lower perch nut at the bottom and twist the lower end of the coilover to screw it up or down for height adjustment. I'm not sure how this can be done without removing the bottom mount from the control arm.
As posted above and as in the instructions, it's not recommended to adjust height by turning the upper perch nut that compresses the spring. This is the only adjustment I see possible without removing the coilover.
As far as my original post goes, I got the front two in as recommended and will hopefully get the back in tomorrow. I didn't really see how to accurate estimate the drop prior to install, so I just put it around halfway and installed. I dropped it down and then measured the distance I wanted to change it for the desired ride height, and changed the length of threads showing on the coilover by that amount. It's not too hard to reinstall after you know the routine (15 minutes) and it gets it right where you want it.
The sway bar link nut actually had a hex key in the end of the bolt to hold for tightening.
The instructions show to loosen the lower perch nut at the bottom and twist the lower end of the coilover to screw it up or down for height adjustment. I'm not sure how this can be done without removing the bottom mount from the control arm.
As posted above and as in the instructions, it's not recommended to adjust height by turning the upper perch nut that compresses the spring. This is the only adjustment I see possible without removing the coilover.
As far as my original post goes, I got the front two in as recommended and will hopefully get the back in tomorrow. I didn't really see how to accurate estimate the drop prior to install, so I just put it around halfway and installed. I dropped it down and then measured the distance I wanted to change it for the desired ride height, and changed the length of threads showing on the coilover by that amount. It's not too hard to reinstall after you know the routine (15 minutes) and it gets it right where you want it.
The sway bar link nut actually had a hex key in the end of the bolt to hold for tightening.
The body of the coilover (the part with the threads) should be able to turn when you have the car jacked up.
1. measure how much you need to raise or drop when the car is on the ground.
2. raise the corner you are adjusting
For drop:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) the desired distance measured in step 1.
4. rotate the coilover body counter-clockwise until the lower mounting bracket comes up to the place you put the bottom perch nut. You may have to use the adjustment wrench(es) on the upper perch to get it to turn.
To raise:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) a turn or two so that it is loose from the bottom bracket.
4. rotate the coilover body clockwise the distance measured in step 1 above.
Both:
5. screw the bottom perch nut tight against the bottom bracket and tighten.
02-11-2009, 05:03 AM
#9
Originally Posted by JstnRyan,Feb 10 2009, 08:59 PM
You CAN adjust them the way you are describing, however I think it's more work than you need to do.
The body of the coilover (the part with the threads) should be able to turn when you have the car jacked up.
1. measure how much you need to raise or drop when the car is on the ground.
2. raise the corner you are adjusting
For drop:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) the desired distance measured in step 1.
4. rotate the coilover body counter-clockwise until the lower mounting bracket comes up to the place you put the bottom perch nut. You may have to use the adjustment wrench(es) on the upper perch to get it to turn.
To raise:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) a turn or two so that it is loose from the bottom bracket.
4. rotate the coilover body clockwise the distance measured in step 1 above.
Both:
5. screw the bottom perch nut tight against the bottom bracket and tighten.
The body of the coilover (the part with the threads) should be able to turn when you have the car jacked up.
1. measure how much you need to raise or drop when the car is on the ground.
2. raise the corner you are adjusting
For drop:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) the desired distance measured in step 1.
4. rotate the coilover body counter-clockwise until the lower mounting bracket comes up to the place you put the bottom perch nut. You may have to use the adjustment wrench(es) on the upper perch to get it to turn.
To raise:
3. loosen the bottom perch and screw it clockwise (up) a turn or two so that it is loose from the bottom bracket.
4. rotate the coilover body clockwise the distance measured in step 1 above.
Both:
5. screw the bottom perch nut tight against the bottom bracket and tighten.
I picked up a Honda service manual yesterday and they make the rear look easy. It shows that to remove the rear dampers you simply undo the top two damper bolts and the bottom bolt. Did anyone else find this to be the case? I've heard the rears are difficult to get out. Will I need to put a lot of weight on the lower control arm to get it out?
02-11-2009, 06:49 AM
#10
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It can be tough to get to the rear upper bolts on the driver side because of the gas neck. You should remove it first...
As stated you do not need to remove anything to adjust height. Just turn the body of the shock. If you have allot of preload you will have to undo it before you turn the body. Unless you have a car with pillow ball mounts. (not the S2000)
Also Megan is Junk...
As stated you do not need to remove anything to adjust height. Just turn the body of the shock. If you have allot of preload you will have to undo it before you turn the body. Unless you have a car with pillow ball mounts. (not the S2000)
Also Megan is Junk...