Mod recommendations in stages
I’m new to this forum, and I just want to apologize now if there is a thread out there. But I could not find anything. I used to belong to a DSM forum (turbo eclipse) and they had threads that suggested engine modifications. Is there a thread on here for recommendations? For example like below but maybe with more detail on recommended parts and how to build it up:
Stage 1: intake, exhaust and suspension
Stage 2: brakes, fuel upgrades, clutch flywheel.
Stage 3: forced induction etc
Stage 1: intake, exhaust and suspension
Stage 2: brakes, fuel upgrades, clutch flywheel.
Stage 3: forced induction etc
There's no real established upgrade paths like with DSMs/Evos/Subarus. All depends on what you want to do with the car.
If you want more power, go big or go home as Honda has pretty much wrung everything you can get from the car. The exception is a test pipe and really only shows big results with an aftermarket ECU tune (00-05 require an aftermarket ECU, 06+ have OEM flashable ECU).
If you want to track it often, many recommend a BBK after the usual driver, wheel/tire, pads mods.
If you just want to drive it around for fun and want a bit more ambiance, an intake and/or exhaust. Just don't expect any noticable power gains.
Many just like to keep it stock and maintain.
What's the goal with this car?
If you want more power, go big or go home as Honda has pretty much wrung everything you can get from the car. The exception is a test pipe and really only shows big results with an aftermarket ECU tune (00-05 require an aftermarket ECU, 06+ have OEM flashable ECU).
If you want to track it often, many recommend a BBK after the usual driver, wheel/tire, pads mods.
If you just want to drive it around for fun and want a bit more ambiance, an intake and/or exhaust. Just don't expect any noticable power gains.
Many just like to keep it stock and maintain.
What's the goal with this car?
The best per $ upgrade on the S2000 or about any sports car is wheels, tires, and alignment. Size, offset, and tire compound are all what you want to look into. You don't need 19x11 305s all around but a square setup of wheels and tires is recommended.
Something like Titan 17x9.5 or the "factory" RPF1 setup. If you are going to race/autocross it then there's limits to consider. Our wheels & tire forum has a lot of stickied info and many posts going more in depth but the high offset wheels for these are a bit annoying.
Before you do most stuff you might want to look around the forum a bit to see tips, check community fixes, info, and maybe the automotive build threads for more build information.
I will say our cars need the Honda S2000 factory oil filter, the rear axle needs to be retorqued properly (Billman250's info in thead), and your Cabin air filter is probably in need of being changed. Getting a valve adjusting tool is also important (more so on 2006+ cars)
On S2000 the real gains come from a higher flowing catalytic converter or test pipe used in combination with a tune.
If your car is a 2006+ then a custom FlashPro tune will give you as much as 25whp gains in the mid range with VTEC engaging at 3600-4000 rpm. Don't just lower it but the Toda FlashPro pre-installed map is a decent tune with it with similar gains but it is a ROUGH tune.
For 2005 and older cars you would need a stand alone like a Haltech Elite (popular option) or something like Brian @Karcepts plug & play piggyback Greddy ECU, harness, and tune. The Piggyback basically gets the factory tune info then converts it to Brian's tune or whoever you have tune the E-Manage.
If you want to add power this is where you start.
If you want more induction noise or exhaust noise you can upgrade those components but there are many thread on why the OEM parts are just hard to beat. The stock cat-back is heavy but keeps the annoying drone out. The factory header flows VERY well with a different cat. Urge and PLM have headers that do have gains but really you would still need a tune catback matching the diameter, and a Higher-flowing cat or test pipe to make either worth it.
Suspension, well that all depends on you. You do have to spend a good bit of coin to get a upgrade. Some nice Fortune Autos, Feals, Ohlins, JRZ's or Billsteins / Konis are the popular options for coilover. Spring rates are very important. Sway bars also kind of depend on if you are racing, want to have a squared tire setup or a staggered fitment. With the newest car being 12 years old now (2009) bushings are something to consider as well as mounts.
Brakes for 90% of people are fine with just better pads like Stoptech Street/Sports and higher temp brake fluid with a reservoir sock/wrist band. Rotors are cheap if you get Centric Blanks un-drilled or un-slotted. If you are cracking these often enough then you might want to consider ducting and some Big Brake Kits.
StopTech, Urge, Willwood, and Sakebomb all have great kits. I personally would recommend the Rx8 / S197 Mustang rear brake kit from SBG or ReilleyRacing. It gives you a bigger rear VENTED rotor to save your wheel bearings which on the rear are...not fun to do.
Forced Induction... well now it's the rabbit hole. How fast do you want to go and how reliable do you want to be?
This is where the clutch, flywheel, maybe differential, and fuel pump are upgraded too. You would also need the tuning capabilities and better cooling but it's a fun dragon to chase
There's a lot of good companies still making stuff for our cars & many people on here can help. I will recommend avoiding Ballade as they don't have a great track record.
For some little stuff check out Modifry for some cool stuff. The center console organizer & soft top straps are basically a must. Bob's a cool dude too
@roel03 is also a great guy for some 3D Printed stuff. His website is Baero and I'm pretty sure he works with Pratt & Miller on the C8R Racing team. If you order anything ask for stickers!
Welcome to the cult, but you had a 4G63T so you already know about that stuff.
Something like Titan 17x9.5 or the "factory" RPF1 setup. If you are going to race/autocross it then there's limits to consider. Our wheels & tire forum has a lot of stickied info and many posts going more in depth but the high offset wheels for these are a bit annoying.
Before you do most stuff you might want to look around the forum a bit to see tips, check community fixes, info, and maybe the automotive build threads for more build information.
I will say our cars need the Honda S2000 factory oil filter, the rear axle needs to be retorqued properly (Billman250's info in thead), and your Cabin air filter is probably in need of being changed. Getting a valve adjusting tool is also important (more so on 2006+ cars)
On S2000 the real gains come from a higher flowing catalytic converter or test pipe used in combination with a tune.
If your car is a 2006+ then a custom FlashPro tune will give you as much as 25whp gains in the mid range with VTEC engaging at 3600-4000 rpm. Don't just lower it but the Toda FlashPro pre-installed map is a decent tune with it with similar gains but it is a ROUGH tune.
For 2005 and older cars you would need a stand alone like a Haltech Elite (popular option) or something like Brian @Karcepts plug & play piggyback Greddy ECU, harness, and tune. The Piggyback basically gets the factory tune info then converts it to Brian's tune or whoever you have tune the E-Manage.
If you want to add power this is where you start.
If you want more induction noise or exhaust noise you can upgrade those components but there are many thread on why the OEM parts are just hard to beat. The stock cat-back is heavy but keeps the annoying drone out. The factory header flows VERY well with a different cat. Urge and PLM have headers that do have gains but really you would still need a tune catback matching the diameter, and a Higher-flowing cat or test pipe to make either worth it.
Suspension, well that all depends on you. You do have to spend a good bit of coin to get a upgrade. Some nice Fortune Autos, Feals, Ohlins, JRZ's or Billsteins / Konis are the popular options for coilover. Spring rates are very important. Sway bars also kind of depend on if you are racing, want to have a squared tire setup or a staggered fitment. With the newest car being 12 years old now (2009) bushings are something to consider as well as mounts.
Brakes for 90% of people are fine with just better pads like Stoptech Street/Sports and higher temp brake fluid with a reservoir sock/wrist band. Rotors are cheap if you get Centric Blanks un-drilled or un-slotted. If you are cracking these often enough then you might want to consider ducting and some Big Brake Kits.
StopTech, Urge, Willwood, and Sakebomb all have great kits. I personally would recommend the Rx8 / S197 Mustang rear brake kit from SBG or ReilleyRacing. It gives you a bigger rear VENTED rotor to save your wheel bearings which on the rear are...not fun to do.
Forced Induction... well now it's the rabbit hole. How fast do you want to go and how reliable do you want to be?
This is where the clutch, flywheel, maybe differential, and fuel pump are upgraded too. You would also need the tuning capabilities and better cooling but it's a fun dragon to chase
There's a lot of good companies still making stuff for our cars & many people on here can help. I will recommend avoiding Ballade as they don't have a great track record.
For some little stuff check out Modifry for some cool stuff. The center console organizer & soft top straps are basically a must. Bob's a cool dude too
@roel03 is also a great guy for some 3D Printed stuff. His website is Baero and I'm pretty sure he works with Pratt & Miller on the C8R Racing team. If you order anything ask for stickers!
Welcome to the cult, but you had a 4G63T so you already know about that stuff.
There is no correct answer to your question. What year, how many miles on your S2000? A well maintained S2000 is a balanced, sporty vehicle for everyday driving on public roads. Upgrading the timing chain tensioner (TCT) and rear axle nut re-torquing are recommended for all S2000s. 2006 years and later need valve adjustment check. These 3 items are covered by reading posts from Billman.
For 2004 and later, if you're are a spirited driver, you should consider removing the CDV from your clutch slave cylinder or replacing the slave with a pre '04 unit.
As long as you keep your engine NA, stay with the OEM clutch disk and pressure plate. It will be smoother and last longer than grippier units.
Wider wheels and tires may require modifying your fenders at the risk of cracking your paint and/or deforming your fender.
If you do not drive in freezing conditions, high performance, "summer" tires enhance spirited driving.
There is a wide range of performance and price in aftermarket coil over shocks. I suggest that you shop quality rather than chase bargain priced set ups.
Aggressive, track oriented brake pads will be noisy and leave a ton a brake dust on your wheels. You may not appreciate these pads if you want a clean street car.
For more power; test pipe or HFC and a tune. Or, forced induction and a tune. What are your local smog control laws? How big is your bank account?
As you drive your car and become familiar with it's character, you should be in a better position to know what you want to change.
If you want bling and stance, go crazy. It's your car.
For 2004 and later, if you're are a spirited driver, you should consider removing the CDV from your clutch slave cylinder or replacing the slave with a pre '04 unit.
As long as you keep your engine NA, stay with the OEM clutch disk and pressure plate. It will be smoother and last longer than grippier units.
Wider wheels and tires may require modifying your fenders at the risk of cracking your paint and/or deforming your fender.
If you do not drive in freezing conditions, high performance, "summer" tires enhance spirited driving.
There is a wide range of performance and price in aftermarket coil over shocks. I suggest that you shop quality rather than chase bargain priced set ups.
Aggressive, track oriented brake pads will be noisy and leave a ton a brake dust on your wheels. You may not appreciate these pads if you want a clean street car.
For more power; test pipe or HFC and a tune. Or, forced induction and a tune. What are your local smog control laws? How big is your bank account?
As you drive your car and become familiar with it's character, you should be in a better position to know what you want to change.
If you want bling and stance, go crazy. It's your car.
Engine - wise, for '06+ cars Flashpro and test pipe. Then decide if you want F/I or stay N/A, because a lot of the parts will need to be replaced if you go N/A upgrade first. After the Flaspro and test pipe, most N/A mods won't do much power wise, so if you aren't happy at that point then go F/I.
Have fun. In many instances the journey (modifying and wrenching) are more that half the fun.
"Stages" that are discarded as you move up don't make sense. FlashPro tune with a high flow cat can get you a 3600rpm VTEC for noticeable mid range power (and enjoyment) which is how the car should have been produced. Going beyond this engine performance requires forced induction as Honda left literally noting on the performance table in the way of intake and exhaust but aftermarket exhausts and exhausts can sound "performance" even if it's minuscule. Race cars shaving partial seconds off lap times are different animals. Got $10,000 burning a hole in your pocket? Go forced induction!
But you still won't be able to run with the Dodge Wildcats or Shelby Mustangs or a tuned Civic R.
Extreme performance summer tires and an alignment will set the car up for back roads and "canyon" driving just fine. Again, Honda left little on the handling table and tweaked it every two years. Need to shave a second off your lap time? Yeah, a tunable suspension will help for the specific track you're running if you know what changes will improve that corner. Back roads corners don't arrive at predictable intervals again and again and again as on a track where you learn the entry and exit speeds thru repetition, something that doesn't happen on that wonderful back road that you haven't driven before.
-- Chuck
"Stages" that are discarded as you move up don't make sense. FlashPro tune with a high flow cat can get you a 3600rpm VTEC for noticeable mid range power (and enjoyment) which is how the car should have been produced. Going beyond this engine performance requires forced induction as Honda left literally noting on the performance table in the way of intake and exhaust but aftermarket exhausts and exhausts can sound "performance" even if it's minuscule. Race cars shaving partial seconds off lap times are different animals. Got $10,000 burning a hole in your pocket? Go forced induction!
But you still won't be able to run with the Dodge Wildcats or Shelby Mustangs or a tuned Civic R.Extreme performance summer tires and an alignment will set the car up for back roads and "canyon" driving just fine. Again, Honda left little on the handling table and tweaked it every two years. Need to shave a second off your lap time? Yeah, a tunable suspension will help for the specific track you're running if you know what changes will improve that corner. Back roads corners don't arrive at predictable intervals again and again and again as on a track where you learn the entry and exit speeds thru repetition, something that doesn't happen on that wonderful back road that you haven't driven before.
-- Chuck
What's your final goal and total budget? Only with that is is possible to define stages. Unlike many cars, most 'stage' concepts don't apply to the S2000. You can spend a lot of $$$ and only make your car slower and louder...
Driver mod + tires are the two that are always a good idea.
Tim
Driver mod + tires are the two that are always a good idea.
Tim
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