Doesn't the seal for any of the hardtops made for the s2k sit on that rubber piece? I don't think removing it would help at all but make it worse and rub on portions that aren't meant to be touched by the hardtop like the actual bodypanels/painted surface. I remember people replacing the seal on those replica hardtops cause they were garage, maybe give that a try.

 

After adding the camper seal the top doesn't squeak anymore. I used a silicone lubricant (aka Shin etsu) ONLY on the rear seal that came with it. I forgot to add some to the new camper seal, BUT it actually doesn't squeak. So I lucked out there. As far as rattles I discovered a rattle that comes on and off right by the driver side latch (I used it off my soft top). Ill try to make it so that the latch will seal tighter, and it may alleviate the vibrations. For the most part the camper seal is what made a huge difference: ZERO light shining through and it happened to shut the squeaks up entirely.

I'm so relieved that after spending all the money on shipping/paint/the top itself/hardware/window install that it's finally done and fits. I think it is worth it to mention that adding the camper seal will definitely raise the rear of the top so it won't sit flush, however the trade off is that it will be sealed. It doesn't bother me a bit, but it went from being able to stick maybe half my pinky under the rear of the top (between the trunk area see pic) to about 3/4 of my pinky under there. I suppose of you looked really hard, a trained eye would be able to spot it, but even then it doesn't seem like a big deal to me. Hope this helps answer your questions.

 

For those looking for the camper seal:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc..._&target=shelf

It looks like that, came in a plastic bag. Cost me 13 dollars or so plus tax.

 

Also found this on amazon. Not sure which one to go with.

http://www.amazon.com/API-LDTT200P-T...720546&sr=8-10

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1404632

OP, how sticky is the adhesive from the auto zone one?

 

The autozone stuff tends to come off after several car washes for me, unless the top is pinching down on it real good. There are areas on my HT where the HT itself rests on the rubber seal in some areas causing the seal not come in contact with anything. Although my top probably isnt the best fitting top around.

Also, this is my 2nd top so far, and my first top fit like OP's but worse. The issue I believe was with the hardware used. The hardware I have now is VERY basic, and I havent seen any other hardware like it (it might be custom.. i bought it second had) but I think it may be one of the better designs since I can torque it down as much as I need. I have no gaps at all, even without seals. Just other fitment issues.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

To be honest the adhesive isn't the greatest. The adhesive is going to be attached to the stock rubber strip that you see in the over head pic with arrows. BUT I'm not too worried because its basically sandwiched between the stock rubber strip and the hardtop and then bolted in tight. It's not going anywhere and it gets the job done.

 

get the seals from spyder

 

This is the tape I use. I put a strip on the rear Vinyl molding in the back and in the front(between the windshield frame and HT) to seal the wind noise. It's very dense and makes the fitment of the HT very tight...That's a good thing since it will provide a very good seal.

Bomb foam tape

 

I apologize for thread jacking, but I'm having issues with the top also. Don't have a sealing problem but I do have rattles going on in the cabin. Sounds like squeaks when ever I go over bumps. The sound is very loud after a while, sounds like the nuts are moving within the sockets. Could it be the brackets that came with the top? Would getting izzy's solve this. Thanks for any advice and again sorry for jacking the thread.