Lol "not bad for being driven in winter".
Maybe?

But its still rusted asf. Who cares what "its not that bad" for?

If I left a peice of steak on a fully burning grille for 3 hours and then retrieved it, I could say "its not that bad for spending 3 hours in the 7th circle of hell".

What is the point of reference for positivity here??

Dude's either gonna spend his whole life fixing it, or he's gonna leave it alone and just forget it.

You could wire brush and slather some paint on it like you could scrape off that steak I described and throw some ketchup on it.

 

Well I guess if I had said wire brush and slather some paint on it ... but I did not so .... yeah. I said to follow the instructions for POR and use the etchant like they said, because many skip that step. Cause most people are not going to disassemble the car and acid dip it. So it is better than not doing anything. rying to give the guy some options. But I know ... you like to have these types of replies to everything people say. If it makes you feel better go right ahead lol.

 

My point is...

He's not gonna drive it in the winter anymore. So...its not gonna get more rusty. It'll probably last another 20+ yrs without additional rust propogation on the exposed parts - at least to the point where they will be more liable to fail. The damage is done, effectively.

So...if he's not taking the car apart to fix it completely for aesthetics (or any other reason)....then...what exactly is the point of the intermediate steps of scraping it, spraying some etch on it and POR-ing it?

Also, his brake and fuel lines are rusted. Something one would probably want to fix rather than cover up.

KnowwhatImean?

U gotta read into it my bru. Don't just make me out to be a bad guy.


Also "what's the point?" is a question that I'm welcoming an answer on. Maybe I'm dumb asf and missing something obvious.

 

There's the saying "Rust never sleeps" for a reason. Agreed that the diff/axles/control arms will be fine either way. For thinner sheet metal like the body and subframe, that rust will take it eventually if untreated. Probably won't grow much in a very arid climate but still grow some. With humidity, it'll grow slowly even if not exposed to salt.

Rust really sucks and you can never really restore metal that has structural rust. This thing isn't too far gone and can be repaired but will take attention. The longer you wait, the more attention it will need eventually. I've gotten rid of vehicles before due to rust. It's the only reason I won't drive my S in the winter. It would be so fun to do on winter tires. I replaced my DD last year and purchased an old Toyota from the south and got the underside coated in Fluid Film before winter to stave off rust. Absolutely hate the stuff and learned some expensive lessons in dealing with it. It's my #1 priority when buying a used car now.

 

Problem is, you need to get the car on a lift to really inspect all of the underside. Getting on your hands and knees just won't do it, for low laying cars.

 

Well I learned something new today. I had never heard of Fluid Film and a quick search was interesting. So, why do you hate the stuff and what are expensive lessons for something you spray and forget, it seems?

 

Fluid Film works great, but has a few downsides.

Its made from the secretions from some gland of wool bearing mammals. Think about that the next time you're working under your car and a whole bunch of it gets all over your arm.

"Wait wait...which gland?!!!" is what goes thru my head

But it does work really well to protect winter driven cars.

 

"the stuff" I was referring to was rust, not fluid film. Perhaps I could have worded that better. I haven't used fluid film for enough seasons to have a strong opinion but I've seen mostly good things if applied well. Does smell a bit at first but mostly goes away. Makes every job a bit messier but is what it is.

I hate rust. I've gotten rid of two vehicles now because of it. Rusted quarters are $$$ to get right and there's lots more rust hiding where you can't see. The bubble in the fender just tells you it's gotten quite bad. I had a 4Runner with a section of the frame re-welded. Then the diff leaked due to corrosion. I got it welded. A few months later, leaked out of a different area. I got it welded. Got it back home and saw drips on the ground. I was done chasing it. It was never going to go away. I should have never spent the money to fix the frame in the first place. I should have accepted the end of life of that vehicle. I learned the lesson that paying a few extra G's and dealing with the hassle of going south to get a non-rusty one is worth it up front. The time and $$ spent trying to get a rusty example back to something nice is not worth it and you cannot restore matter. For something that was purchased as a second vehicle, like the S, you can find a clean example anywhere. For a Toyota truck/SUV, which is known to rust, 90%+ of them in the salt belt that are over a decade old have significant rust that is going to take effort to remediate. Worth it to buy the right example up front for many reasons. This is the first one I'm starting at a place that I get to attempt preservation on. I expect it to be a much better route than remediation.

 

Hey All,

Thanks for replaying to the post. I probably will take care of it next winter I think. Maybe sooner, because it will only get worse. Maybe will let a company do it but im not sure.

When I bought it (Bought it from an dealer) Didn't think it looked that bad. Only the diff was a big thing but that one wouldn't rust through.

But now I did my oil change and took my time looking underneath it I was a bit disappointed in my self. For not taking my time back then and maybe look at other S2000 on the market.

Im some what happy that you guys said it was from salt, because i live in the Netherlands and not that it would be some drainage whole in the trunk that has been rusting through