Test pipe install
Hi everyone,
I was hoping you guys can help. I just bought an invidia 60mm test pipe used, but never installed. The problem is that it is missing most of the bolts and nuts.
Can I just buy the same size bolts and nuts at the hardware store? Or are they special bolts that hold up to the high temps? Can I just use the ones that are already on the cat and header?
Thank you.
I was hoping you guys can help. I just bought an invidia 60mm test pipe used, but never installed. The problem is that it is missing most of the bolts and nuts.
Can I just buy the same size bolts and nuts at the hardware store? Or are they special bolts that hold up to the high temps? Can I just use the ones that are already on the cat and header?
Thank you.
The spring bolts are available at AutoZone. Not the right ones but they'll do. There's a doughnut washer between the header and cat to seal that area you might need too. "Correct" solution is to get two OEM spring bolts and the OEM washer. Rear bolts, nuts, and lock washers (there are 3 sets) will be needed as well 'cuz the OEM cat has threaded studs back there and the test pipe does not. Bolts and nuts usually come with testpipe/HFC kits.
Stainless steel bolts are available everywhere. You may have trouble getting the existing bolts off the car. Soak them in PB Blaster for several days first. The top bolt on the cat is especially hard to get off while the exhaust is on the car. Even with the exhaust on the ground we were unable to get this bolt off a buddy's system with either electric or air rattle guns.
"Test pipe" will probably immediately light the MIL (CEL) and the exhaust will stink.
-- Chuck
Stainless steel bolts are available everywhere. You may have trouble getting the existing bolts off the car. Soak them in PB Blaster for several days first. The top bolt on the cat is especially hard to get off while the exhaust is on the car. Even with the exhaust on the ground we were unable to get this bolt off a buddy's system with either electric or air rattle guns.
"Test pipe" will probably immediately light the MIL (CEL) and the exhaust will stink.
-- Chuck
If you need them, I'd buy the spring and spring bolts from Honda. You may not need those two, though. They seem to hold up better than other bolts. Mine are original from the year 2000 (never driven in salt).
You can buy (3X) 316SS bolts rather than 304SS and nuts for the rear hardware.
Resist every urge you have to crank any of the fasteners down. I think the fronts only need 15LB and the rears maybe 30-40.
Remember that 304/316SS bolts are substantially weaker than C10.O and even C8.8 bolts. So ....don't crank them down.
Use a small dab of anti size...especially on the SS bolts.
You can buy (3X) 316SS bolts rather than 304SS and nuts for the rear hardware.
Resist every urge you have to crank any of the fasteners down. I think the fronts only need 15LB and the rears maybe 30-40.
Remember that 304/316SS bolts are substantially weaker than C10.O and even C8.8 bolts. So ....don't crank them down.
Use a small dab of anti size...especially on the SS bolts.











