Yes, thats the lean spike that people get sometimes with wet kits. Some get it worse than others. I posted some more graphs below. They tend to lean and then go very rich.


Someone show me a dyno/AFR with a dry kit going lean!!!!! I would like to know what Im saying is bs. Why does NOS and Zex make dry kits then? Prove me wrong!!!!


http://nitrousforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361



http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxid...ome-please.html



LS1 dyno day with 1 nitrous pull-14.94 lean spike

I can find these dynos all day long

BTW. Heres an article explaining how my dry kit boosts fuel pressure so I don't go lean since I obviously suck at explaining it.
http://nitrousforum.com/forums/showthread....ight=dyno+spike

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-...ers-04-gto.html

 

Please call NX and ask for the kit for a s2000, and let me know what they tell you.

 

NX just started getting into dry kits and guess what???? They're all for returnless fuel systems so the s2000 is out of the question for an NX dry kit. THEY DO NOT BOOST FUEL PRESSURE. Thats why it'll be wet from them.

Got another one for me? Or are you trying to act like you know something?

 

Your driving me crazy dude... You boosting up your fuel pressure is going to make your car run pig rich all the time except when your spraying. Our fuel pressure comes set for a reason... Since you have the NOS kit, please feel free to give them a call instead of NX, you'll get the same answer.

And all this crap about lean spikes is making me wonder if you just have no common sense or what. For example: a wet kit, it may have a .038 n2o and a .024 fuel(just picking random numbers) and a dry kit will just be a .038 n20. You spray the wet kit and there is fuel to make up for the n20 even if there's is a split second of leaning out. You spray your dry shot and there is no fuel to correct the afr so instead of running dangerously lean for a split second, your running it lean the entire shot... Yeah, you may be able to ghetto rig it and jack up the fuel pressure, but that still won't be as affective as just using a wet kit that mix's the two perfectly.
Also, all of those dynos mean nothing to me and you, neither one of us know their exact setups and what was going wrong with their cars. Those lean spots could be from anything really, possible bad positioning of the fogger nozzle or something.


Edit: I just saw the link to the kit that you have. That isn't your standard run of the mill dry kit, that has provisions for fuel which would technically make it a wet kit. A dry nitrous system is just one solenoid, it has a line directly from the bottle, to the solenoid, then directly to the nozzle in the intake or below the carb. That is what i've been thinking your talking about. So in a way we're both right, but you just miss worded what you have.

 

Theres a good reason why its dry and my kit and the Zex kit are different than run of the mill "dry kits." I only spray nitrous in my intake; I'll explain below why theres 2 solenoids. I will say it ONE MORE TIME. FUEL PRESSURE!!!!! Alot has changed since you probably last looked into dry nitrous which is probably why dry kits have bad reputations.

IT ONLY BOOSTS FUEL PRESSURE WHEN YOU SPRAY since its leaches off of the nitrous line. I'll tell you how. The reason why it has two solenoids is thus: 1. if your solenoid leaks/stays open, it won't go in your intake as another safety feature. 2. In between the 2 solenoids is where it leaches the pressure to pressurize the fuel pressure regulator. 3. The second solenoid is hooked up to the fuel pressure safety switch. So when I initially spray, my fuel pressure gets boosted and when it hits the correct pressure, the second solenoid opens up and commences spraying into the intake. This gives me a safe AFR when I spray and without spraying my AFR isn't changed one bit. I don't go lean.

Do you understand how this kit will not got lean now? I can also find a shit ton more lean dyno graphs if you want me to post them up?

 

The blue tee goes in between the solenoids. The blue cylinder is the spring loaded to let the pressure go to the fuel pressure regulator and the tee at the top is where I can change my jets for the fuel pressure regulator to tune my fuel pressure.

 

Um maybe you missed my edit down there bud because I agreed with you. Or maybe you just failed reading comprehension when you were in school.

I see how your kit adjusts fuel now, you should have posted that up earlier... But I'm sure the O.P. means a wet kit meaning gas plus nitrous and the dry kit meaning JUST nitrous(which is what you said you had in the begining), which is normal termanology for nitrous talk. Hopefully I made that simple enough for you to understand... I'll break it down a little more for you if you need me too.

Sorry O.P. For cluttering up your thread, this is my last post.

 

Actually you failed comprehension. In your edit, you said I technically have a wet kit. I don't!!!!

I still only spray nitrous into my intake... No fuel. Only thing with fuel is pressure and a safety switch. You just contradicted yourself in the post above me. You're kinda in a corner now.

Please break it down for me with my wet kit that only sprays nitrous.

 

I'll even wikipedia "nitrous" for you

"
Dry

In a dry nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the manifold dry of fuel. This property is what gives the dry system its name.

"