Boosted_Talon

Hey guys. About 8 months ago, I spun a rod bearing in my 01 S2000. I pulled the motor and transmission out of the car, but without having enough money or time to fix it, the car has just sat in my garage for the last 8 months as a rolling chassis. I've saved some money, and I feel like it's time to get my baby back to the way she is supposed to be.

I would really like to go Forced Induction, but being a college student, I don't have nearly enough to build a motor and go FI. So my question is, assuming I'm going to stay N/A, what would be my best options for building a motor?

I'm not looking for killer hp numbers, but I would definitely like some more torque. Without a longer stroke, I don't know if it's possible. I've got about $3300 to play with in building a motor. With that said, I understand that isn't a lot of money when wanting to go with forged internals.

What brands have you guys have good luck with for:
-Rods
-Pistons
-Rod Bearings
-Main Bearings
-Head studs
-Main studs

Should I go with an aftermarket crank, or have mine machined and leave it alone? I've heard that cams do not do a lot for the F20C being N/A. Is this right?

OR, should I put a stock motor back in it and be done with it? I REALLY want some more torque, but money wise, I thought that buying a used motor would be comparable to rebuilding my bottom end with forged internals. I've been reading up a little more on the F22 swap as well. It should be a direct bolt in, shouldn't it? The F22 would give me slightly more torque, while keeping the 240hp, and with the 00-01 ECU, would allow me to safely rev to 8600.

What do you guys think? Any and all information is appreciated!

Thanks a lot!

wadzii

for an easy NA build, use ap2 crank, brian crower rods and +6cc mahle pistons. That will be very reliable/cheap/easy to build.

You wont need headstuds for main studs, you can reuse the stock ones no problem. use acl race bearings

STL2SLW

I agree with wadzii that will be the most simple cost effective setup mahle pistons are frm friendly so they go into a factory block and crower rods are very affordable while still being strong and the 2.2/ ap2 crank will get you some TQ that you talked about.

blasphemy101

Just out of curiosity, but does a build like this show gains over a stock F22?

STL2SLW

Yes it will show gains over a stock F22c now how much ? But where you gain HP over stock is higher compression of the mahle pistons id recommend 12.5:1 for pump gas and lighter weight rods and pistons less rotational mass, not sure how much lighter the BC rods are over stock or pistons but that's where you would pick up power over a stock f22c, not to mention the potential to rev this engine higher "safer" based on stronger internals but my guess would be about 10-15whp over a stock f22.

Gripp

Has anyone posted any dyno sheets? Over the weekend I had some mechanical failure… shortly after installing new head with valves, "AP2 retainers". Engine running on track at about 8000 RPM in 3rd gear and it just lost power, no bang, no knock, no pop, no oil leak (Engine has proper oil levels), it felt like someone took key out of ignition. Lost all power will not turn over? So I tried to turn engine at crank only made it ¾ of the way… so I pulled plugs same issue.

So I face the same challenge: What build should I perform… I will track this car heavily… so I too want more power and would like to keep it N/A… Looking to reach that 300 hp if possible it too is an AP1. Looking for proven solution…any thoughts?

Andrew17930

i would go with the Carrillo Pro-A Beam Lightweight Rods they are 60 grams lighter then stock

blasphemy101

300hp or 300whp? Either can be done, the second being much more expensive, and I have my doubts about its track reliability.

The easiest solution for that power is probably a supercharger - it'd get to that power easily, and you'd retain much of the character of the N/A motor.

STL2SLW

These are the best rods in my opinion, they are what i have in my engine but they are not necessarily "budget" friendly.

STL2SLW

I haven't seen a sheet with this setup but there is no reason it would not make power over a stock engine ap2 and with the right internals and proper build very reliable for track duties. 300hp seems to be that number everyone wants to chase NA but it is very hard to do but can be done, it will cost alot more then a setup like this. I do have a fully built NA engine that is proven to me 100's of laps around track and autox to be very reliable. Carrilo rods, cp pistons, 2.2 crank

Track reliability can be done very easily built and tuned properly. But will be very expensive.

Suoercharger will make that power easily and have similar characteristics you are right. But is still not the same as NA