I have tried searching for a bit, but have not been able to find the answers to all of my questions. Hopefully some of you that have been working with the internals of these engines much longer than I have can point me in the right direction.
I just recently got my AP1, it is a 2001 with (now) 34,000 miles on it. I would like to prevent as many issues as possible from the start. Since I have heard of issues with the valvetrain in the f20c, would it be wise to get a new valvetrain right away? I was looking at the BC kit with dual springs, titanium retainers and steel seats, as well as the BC valves if necessary. If I go this route, would it be best to also do the BC stage II cams at the same time. Maybe it is just me talking myself into it, but I feel like taking it apart only once if I can help it will be better.
Other questions I have also:
Is Supertech superior in any way to BC, or on the same level?
Or do I not need to worry about any valve issues with such a low mileage motor?
Are f22 valve springs a valid option in comparison to BC or Supertech?
Also, I do not have any other performance mods yet. I would get the head out of the way first.
Any help would be appreciated, thank you.

 

I think I just found my answer on one of GoTuning's blog posts. It seems the least expensive option will just be f22 retainers. If anyone would like to confirm, that would be great. This seems like it may be the best option in the immediate future, since the head will not need to be removed to do it.

 

I think basically everything you mentioned is completely unnecessary, unless you're building a race/track car, and even then it might be unnecessary. You have a 2001 Honda - albeit a super high performance one - with 34,000 miles. That's nothing. I've also never heard of AP1 valve train issues outside of something caused by the driver, meaning a mechanical over rev. It might be worth checking your valve retainers for cracks from an accidental fourth to second shift or something by the previous owners (especially the intake retainers... and if any are cracked, you can just replace them with new OEM AP2 retainers), but that's it. I guess you could have the valves adjusted too at that time, but I imagine they'd be within spec. Think you're worrying WAY too much - there are AP1s with 200,000+ miles (literally) on original, stock valve trains.

 

ok, this helps, thank you. I figured I was worrying more than I needed to, but you hear a few things and start to think the worst. I was just looking up ap2 retainers and cotters, and think I may just get those and be done with it. Under $50 for the parts, and then I can have my friends shop do the work for cheap. At least I know I should be afraid to drive it until I get that stuff done. And also not spend anything extra unnecessarily. I would like to take it to the track every once in a while, but it will not be a dedicated track car.

 

I have dont this before, dont waste your money on aftermarket unless you have big power goals in mind(and a big pocket down the road)

You can just leave it as is, or if you want the added security go with brand new OEM AP2 valve train. Thats why I did on my AP1

 

I have in my cart on hondapartscheap.com ap2 retainers and cotters for the intake side. This should be good enough right? I have now found that there really is no need to do the exhaust side.

What did you get from the ap2 for your ap1, retainers, cotters, seats, springs, valves? you did everything?

 

check out this thread, it will point you in the right direction
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/569...head-in-place/

IIRC
16 cotters and 8 retainer for only the intake side.

 

Yes retainers and keepers. Its also the most bullet proof reliable option over aftermarket if your running stock cams. Cheap insurance on protecting your engine from driver error on over rev, which happens to the best of us a few times throughout our long driving career. Its better to bend a valve then it is to drop one in the cylinder.

 

The valve train on F20 motors is very durable. The only weak link may be the AP1 retainers. The vast majority of AP1s will never have a problem, but if the engine sufferers a mechanical over rev, it is possible to damage the retainers. Usually the more time you spend at redline, the greater the chance you have of a mechanical over rev. Since the car is new to you , here is what I would do.

Pull the valve cover and inspect the valve retainers. There are pictures on this site of what good retainers look like and bad. You can also adjust the valves while you are in there. If all is good and you will not be racing of redlining the engine regularly you are all set. Its a Honda, its a VERY well built car.

If you will be tracking, racing, or are a redline hero, you have two prudent options.

1) Upgrade to the AP2 retains immediately. This is good insurance for any future issues.

or

2) Engage in a regular retainer inspection program on a schedule, and after any "incident" where damage may be caused.

I chose #2 for now, I don't mid popping the valve cover every so often. Its easy and fun.

 

OEM is far more reliable and will outlast BC/supertech. upgrade to AP2 parts if you're worried