Tuning Question
Currently been looking at old posts from here regarding tuning your car for highest performance. I was watching a great episode of Wheeler dealer on Velocity Channel as they took a 1989 Porsche 944 Turbo and had it tuned going from 233 hp to 266 hp when done. My question is this a wise investment for a person like myself that has only added a couple mods? K&N intake, test pipe and a nice set of muffler bearings. jk on the last 
Cheers,

Cheers,
Would I go full standalone with your mods? no. Would I look into a piggyback option? yes. Tuning with a standalone, on our cars, calls for something that can replace the whole OEM ecu. Usually stroker kits, itbs, some nitrous kits, and tc/sc kits require a standalones level of control. My opinion, a standalone on a bolt-on S is overkill.
Would I go full standalone with your mods? no. Would I look into a piggyback option? yes. Tuning with a standalone, on our cars, calls for something that can replace the whole OEM ecu. Usually stroker kits, itbs, some nitrous kits, and tc/sc kits require a standalones level of control. My opinion, a standalone on a bolt-on S is overkill.
Cheers,
Would I go full standalone with your mods? no. Would I look into a piggyback option? yes. Tuning with a standalone, on our cars, calls for something that can replace the whole OEM ecu. Usually stroker kits, itbs, some nitrous kits, and tc/sc kits require a standalones level of control. My opinion, a standalone on a bolt-on S is overkill.
OK, great to hear. And after finding the prices, makes sense after a major mod like turbo or super charger but not with a few bolt on's like mine. The piggyback if I understand, is one of those plug and play small boxes that has a couple dials on it allowing you to pitch out the fuel/air mixtures when you want? That sounds like fun.
Cheers,
Cheers,
Just like the show "Wheeler Dealers" I was watching taking a 89 944 turbo all stock, putting on a dyno finding a baseline 233hp next took the ECU out put a different chip in following the torque curves to match timing and fuel, then back on the dyno for a increase of 33hp to 266hp. Yes this was a turbo and not naturally aspirated however couldn't this be done to best match all the US elements for best hp gain without adding lots of bling bolt on's to the engine? And really I did was allowing the car to breathe better simple. If a dyno tuning could be done for a few hundred dollars, would be worth an increase of 15-30hp and dialed in with throttle, fuel, air, timing on the US market. And I'm sure that could hurt the engine in the long run.
Cheers,
Trending Topics
Just like the show "Wheeler Dealers" I was watching taking a 89 944 turbo all stock, putting on a dyno finding a baseline 233hp next took the ECU out put a different chip in following the torque curves to match timing and fuel, then back on the dyno for a increase of 33hp to 266hp. Yes this was a turbo and not naturally aspirated however couldn't this be done to best match all the US elements for best hp gain without adding lots of bling bolt on's to the engine? And really I did was allowing the car to breathe better simple. If a dyno tuning could be done for a few hundred dollars, would be worth an increase of 15-30hp and dialed in with throttle, fuel, air, timing on the US market. And I'm sure that could hurt the engine in the long run.
Cheers,
Cheers,
like i said in the previous post, i was able to gain 38 whp peak as opposed to stock. from my own testing on the s2k, i can tell you that the stock header performs great. even in stock form, an ap1 would break the 200 whp barrier but the stock ecu on the ap1 runs piss rich at high rpm. a good chunk of the gains are going to come from running a test pipe, a larger single exit exhaust and a tune.
Originally Posted by JUSTINTHECOASTIE' timestamp='1341086905' post='21824683
But why waste standalone capabilities on a bolt on setup... for 15hp? You benefit more from a standalone going other routes than with bolt ons.
Just like the show "Wheeler Dealers" I was watching taking a 89 944 turbo all stock, putting on a dyno finding a baseline 233hp next took the ECU out put a different chip in following the torque curves to match timing and fuel, then back on the dyno for a increase of 33hp to 266hp. Yes this was a turbo and not naturally aspirated however couldn't this be done to best match all the US elements for best hp gain without adding lots of bling bolt on's to the engine? And really I did was allowing the car to breathe better simple. If a dyno tuning could be done for a few hundred dollars, would be worth an increase of 15-30hp and dialed in with throttle, fuel, air, timing on the US market. And I'm sure that could hurt the engine in the long run.
Cheers,
Cheers,
like i said in the previous post, i was able to gain 38 whp peak as opposed to stock. from my own testing on the s2k, i can tell you that the stock header performs great. even in stock form, an ap1 would break the 200 whp barrier but the stock ecu on the ap1 runs piss rich at high rpm. a good chunk of the gains are going to come from running a test pipe, a larger single exit exhaust and a tune.
Anyways, thanks again for both your choices on whats best for car and drive.
Cheers,
Hey guys, this is great information you are providing me, a newbie to the S's but understand engines in general. I seriously hate to ask this question of which will reveal my ignorance, but could you explain to me what is a "standalone"? I'm assuming that is when you take car into a shop and they put on a dyno, versus a piggyback that plugs into your ECU and you can adjust yourself in your car?
Anyways, thanks again for both your choices on whats best for car and drive.
Cheers,
Anyways, thanks again for both your choices on whats best for car and drive.
Cheers,
a standalone is a ecu that completely replace the stock ecu. it takes complete control of the engine.


