Or under-torquing! I saw a car bust a stud last week at the track. His lugs had loosened up and the resulting wobble snapped one of the studs.

 

Allen, I think you can get ARPs in a near stock length.

 

What are you torqing them too? You're not tightening them while hot are you? Had a guy snap 4 studs that way, tightening them right after he finished a 20 minute session.

 

80 lbs, but it's more complex than that. I had couple let go early in the season. I replaced them, but now the rest are stretched/weakened. I'll just replace them all.

 

you didn't answer my questions

 

I just ordered stock length ARP from speedway's rice division.

1 i over-torque the rims a few times in this spring
2 the car had a broken stud when I bought it (drove like that ???)
3 crap autozone studs have flash and zinc plating buildup (had to clean up brand new ones with a chaser sat, just to put lugs on by hand)
4 my street rims aren't hub-centric (i just ordered the rings)


the car runs track days, solo, and NASA TT with r comps

 

then stock lugs and paying more attention to when you put the lugs on and to torque is all you need.

 

I've never snapped one, Stock or ARP with track day and autocross tire swapping. I won't let anyone near my car without a torque wrench though either. I even carry my wheels and new tires to a shop for mounting and balancing because I don't trust anyone to torque them correctly.

If I take even one wheel off, I work my way around the car with the T wrench doing 40-60-80 ft/lb torqueing on all of them just in case I forgot a wheel or something's coming loose. Paranoid, maybe but, I 've never broke a stud or had a warped rotor.

 

^ Heh, you're definitely paranoid, but as the saying goes, that doesn't mean you're wrong.

Just as important as proper torque is keeping the studs and lugs free of sand and grit, which will eventually seize a lug. It's tough at the track, where you can't avoid everything getting dirty; many of us use a dab of anti-seize.