Alignment advice track/weekend car
I'm trying to find a good starting point alignment for my new setup. The alignment specs I have below are what I was able to compile from a bunch of searching through this forum.
Car setup:
2005
CR front lip
Spoon replica GT wing
17x9 45
255 NT05
BC Racing coils with 12k/12k springs
01 front sway, 05 rear sway
Weekend and track car
What do you think of these alignment specs?
Camber
-2.2 degrees F
-2.7 degrees R
Toe
0F
+ 2/16 to 3/16 toe IN rear
Caster
Max (at least 6 deg)
Thanks
Car setup:
2005
CR front lip
Spoon replica GT wing
17x9 45
255 NT05
BC Racing coils with 12k/12k springs
01 front sway, 05 rear sway
Weekend and track car
What do you think of these alignment specs?
Camber
-2.2 degrees F
-2.7 degrees R
Toe
0F
+ 2/16 to 3/16 toe IN rear
Caster
Max (at least 6 deg)
Thanks
I get some under steer (I personally like over steer more than under) with my wing even with 245's all the way around, all i did was toe out the rears an 8th... problem solved. for me anyways just my 2cents
1/8 out from 0, again its all on how the car is set up. I had my wing super aggressive and it was causing the car to push, i really needed an increase in turn in. and corner exit oversteer wasnt bad at all. it did want to come out in really slow corners as any rear wheel drive car would with to much gas...
just play with it till you find a good balance.
just play with it till you find a good balance.
If this is a weekend/track car...
Why not consider getting more camber, with a camber kit? I run -3F, -3.2R and it works great for me with perfectly even wear on the tires. I do think running in the -3 range gives great results on times and tire wear/longevity.
I used to run that kind of difference in F&R camber, and with 3/16 toe-in it was very easy to manage, actually gave me quite some push... If you want easy to manage 3/16 is a good starting point. I now run 2/16 and rotation is much much better but is remarkably more handful than 3/16...
Why not consider getting more camber, with a camber kit? I run -3F, -3.2R and it works great for me with perfectly even wear on the tires. I do think running in the -3 range gives great results on times and tire wear/longevity.
I used to run that kind of difference in F&R camber, and with 3/16 toe-in it was very easy to manage, actually gave me quite some push... If you want easy to manage 3/16 is a good starting point. I now run 2/16 and rotation is much much better but is remarkably more handful than 3/16...
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Originally Posted by PedalFaster,Jun 24 2010, 11:13 AM
Are you saying that you ran 1/8" less toe in than you had previously, or are you saying that you actually had your rears toed out? If the latter, I wouldn't recommend that approach, and would look to see if there's anything else messing up your handling. I've never dared to run toe out on an S2000, because toe out on the back of a RWD car in general makes it tough to get on the power decisively exiting corners -- the back end wants to come around immediately.
Beyond_Redline. If the wing is causing understeer than I wouldn't kill the end of the car thats working. Run fatter tires up front, reduce roll bar stiffness (reduce lateral load transfer), mess around with instant center heights, run a splitter, adjust the alignment, shift weight, etc.
Originally Posted by chuhsi,Jun 25 2010, 09:39 PM
biggest reason is because i don't want to buy a camber kit 
thanks for the advice

thanks for the advice
I run Daryl's alignment in reverse (I prefer oversteer) -3.2 front and -3 rear for track use.
Originally Posted by Squirtle,Jun 26 2010, 09:37 PM
Buy one - it's well worth the investment. It's probably one of the better mods for this car, IMO.
I run Daryl's alignment in reverse (I prefer oversteer) -3.2 front and -3 rear for track use.
I run Daryl's alignment in reverse (I prefer oversteer) -3.2 front and -3 rear for track use.
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