auto-x alignment settings
#1
auto-x alignment settings
I started the latest auto-x tire setup topic so I thought I'ld follow up with an alignment thread. So what are most of you guys (especially AS ap2 cars) running for alignment settings?
#4
Originally Posted by alexdog1,Feb 13 2009, 07:18 AM
I started the latest auto-x tire setup topic so I thought I'ld follow up with an alignment thread. So what are most of you guys (especially AS ap2 cars) running for alignment settings?
#5
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I run...
front
1.5* camber
Max caster
0 toe
Rear
2.0-2.2* camber (I change it every alignment)
1/8 toe out
The toe out in the rear helps the car rotate. That is the way I like to drive, thus the tail out in my sig
Just remember that every person drives different, and you may not have the same set up as everyone else. I am running 12k spring front and rear on Megan Racing coilovers, I also have a Cusco front and Swift rear sway bars. I have been messing around with alignment for 2 years now and this is where I like the car. I have done about 15 alignments on the car. Trial and error makes perfect.
front
1.5* camber
Max caster
0 toe
Rear
2.0-2.2* camber (I change it every alignment)
1/8 toe out
The toe out in the rear helps the car rotate. That is the way I like to drive, thus the tail out in my sig
Just remember that every person drives different, and you may not have the same set up as everyone else. I am running 12k spring front and rear on Megan Racing coilovers, I also have a Cusco front and Swift rear sway bars. I have been messing around with alignment for 2 years now and this is where I like the car. I have done about 15 alignments on the car. Trial and error makes perfect.
#6
Kind of interesting. Last year was our first year autocrossing and we had SPC ball joints for the front. Due to advice largely from camber-limited stock S2000s, we ran:
-2 front -3 rear.
But we had been hearing from some experienced (National Champion and Trophy winners driving different RWD cars) who suggested less rear camber for autocross.
Going to try -2.5 in front with -2.0 in rear this year and see how it goes. We're running a staggered setup. My co-driver for this year is a very experienced autocrosser and he said it might help keep the rear square and planted to put power down better.
-2 front -3 rear.
But we had been hearing from some experienced (National Champion and Trophy winners driving different RWD cars) who suggested less rear camber for autocross.
Going to try -2.5 in front with -2.0 in rear this year and see how it goes. We're running a staggered setup. My co-driver for this year is a very experienced autocrosser and he said it might help keep the rear square and planted to put power down better.
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#8
Originally Posted by INTJ,Feb 15 2009, 04:03 PM
2.5 rear for canyons and trackdays with street tires, why would 2.0 be better?
The way I understand it is this (and I think it's autocross specific):
The more negative camber you have, the less contact patch you have in the rear for a straight line. If you're running stiffer springs, the car doesn't "squat" the rear tires flat on acceleration and you're not getting all the traction possible in a straight line.
For canyon carving and track driving on street tires, you generally won't be slowing down to 20mph, making a 90 degree hairpin and trying to get maximum acceleration... it's more of a modulation between 20 and 60 and the "fun" is the maximum cornering speed. For that, maybe the negative camber is better?
But then again, "Robinson" on the track thread runs -3.6 f and -2.1 in the rear....
I'll let you know in a few weeks how it feels.
#9
All I know is that with anything more than -2.2 in the back my car is a pushing pig.
Changing rear camber doesn't increase or decrease overall grip - it just moves the slip angle vs. corner phase curve. ie - the car will have more grip in a different part of the turn and less grip in others
Changing rear camber doesn't increase or decrease overall grip - it just moves the slip angle vs. corner phase curve. ie - the car will have more grip in a different part of the turn and less grip in others
#10
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Originally Posted by TheNick,Feb 16 2009, 07:23 AM
All I know is that with anything more than -2.2 in the back my car is a pushing pig.
Changing rear camber doesn't increase or decrease overall grip - it just moves the slip angle vs. corner phase curve. ie - the car will have more grip in a different part of the turn and less grip in others
Changing rear camber doesn't increase or decrease overall grip - it just moves the slip angle vs. corner phase curve. ie - the car will have more grip in a different part of the turn and less grip in others
I ran min camber(-1.3) and 1/16" toe in in the back when I ran the OE and OTS Koni shocks. When I got the Penske 8300's I bumped up to -2.8 degrees of camber and 1/4" of toe in. The new shocks loaded the tire so much more quickly the car got to be a handful on turn in. I don't have any experience with the TC Kline or Koni-NA revalved units so I can't compare those to the Penske.
As far as the front is concerned, I tried toe-out and felt it hurt steady state too much(mid corner push) without helping transient turn-in enough to make it an overall benefit, so I stay with zero toe in the front. Max camber then max caster as all have mentioned.
You'll also notice your driving style likes different stuff, so plan to spend some $$ here tuning the alignment to meet your personal requirements.