Guys...my search skills must be lacking, but I can't find any kind of recent conversation on damper options for stock springs/spring perch heights/SCCA BS legal.

My car is new to me and I ran it first time today. Current set up is a Karcepts front bar (1.25"/.250 wall) and an alignment (-1.5 front camber/0 toe and -1.8 rear with 1/8" toe in...I'm going to put it back on the rack and play with the front subframe, as I was able to get -2.3 on one side and only -1.5 on the other with unacceptable caster, so I settled for evening out at the current -1.5), 245f/255r Dunlop ZII SS.

Besides having some strange issue with finding 1st gear when I really needed 3rd (OUCH!!!), the car was OK. Too much push, but the tires were also brand new and as they scrubbed and I went full soft on the front bar, it got better (this was on concrete known to promote push at Marina, CA). But, I'm already thinking I'd like more rebound/adjustable rebound at a minimum. I'm also wondering if the .250 section bar is too much on street tires?

So, what are the current options for dampers that make sense for stock springs? I can source a set of Koni yellows pretty easily, used, which I would then give to Lee to revalve. Or I might think about something a little zoomier...but, talking with Guy Ankeny today, it sounds like there really aren't many solutions which wouldn't require fabricating seats and some other stuff? I'm new to S2000's. To be honest, I haven't even looked at the rear suspension outside of when it was on the alignment rack and the front only to the extent of installing the front bar.

Thanks
Mike

 

Mike you got quite a bit of options. PSI sells Penske's ready to bolt on for A/B street. You can do the same with Motons, JRZ and MCS. There are not many threads about doing just shocks for Street here.

I have the same problem as you do with the camber. I am currently stuck at -1.5 , if your compliance bushing is seized then this can be causing you problems. ( which is a known issues with s2k's ) This can be an expensive fix since Honda does not offer a replacement compliance bushing, you would have to buy a whole front lower control arm. Most people buy from hondaautomotiveparts.com. Maybe we should write a letter letting us use after market replacements such as Mugen? or any other company that makes replacement bushings.

Definitely check your sub frame alignment and make sure the bolts are tight ( they are known to come loose and would probably be need to re tightened ). A friend also told me about moving around the subframe to achieve more camber, I will look into that as well. Most stock s2ks cannot get more than -1.8 to -2.0. or so i heard.

Also since you are new to your s2k, check your valve clearances especially if its an ap2, unless its been recently done. If you have an ap1 check those valve retainers, I hope you caught that over rev fast enough. AP1 Valves do not like over rev and they crack and are a ticking bomb.

 

Your miss shifts, may be caused by worn mounts, I was having a similar problem... After replacing my mounts that cleared up. I guess you could also do an engine torque damper, but I have no experience with that.

 

RE: dampers - who is close to you and can provide support? Give them your money. Also, I suggest driving a car to two with different shocks, just so you can feel how different their primary handling characteristics are.

 

Should have said, the car is an '08 AP2 and has 17k miles on it, so wear items are pretty much off the table. Given I could get -2.3+ on one side and only -1.5 on the other (with associated issues with caster), I have to believe a sub frame move will even things out...but, that's just logic speaking

Everything appears to be fine with the motor, but (as said) there are possible internal items that didn't let loose, but are now compromised...like rod bolts stretching or other. I'm still sick about it. Other hand, it seems the rear wheels lose traction, first, then the car immediately hit the limiter, so I wonder if it actually did overrev?

I'm waiting to hear from Lee Grimes, but my first inclination is to try the Koni revalve route. I have access to some yellows locally and I've been fine with Konis for autocross, with the demands we put on dampers with oem springs.

 

I saw your post on RRAX, but might as well respond here.

Your alignment "problem" is exactly what you think, the subframe moved. Easiest thing to do is max out the camber cams on the front control arms, loosen the subframe on the alignment rack, and once the front camber numbers are equal, you are good to go. You should get around -1.8 degrees. It just takes a little time and patience. Tighten the bolts with a good "uumph", they are known to loosen up over time. I think RobRob posted he did factory torque +10%.

As for the over-rev, just don't do that . You may have over-revved it, but the AP2 can take over-revs better than the AP1. You will bend a valve before cracking a retainer in the AP2.

As was suggested above, do a valve adjustment on the car, as the valves seem to come pretty tight on the 06+ AP2s from the factory.

Like you said on RRAX, it's a Honda. Edit: Not a 2015 Fit...

 

Figured I'd post both places, so any "tech" around dampers for Street is captured here for future use.

Thanks...even given "Honda", I want to puke thinking about missed shifts and the poor car

 

Ive given the shocks a thought as well, but seeing what Jon Caserta did with the stock units on an 06 ( i believe it was an 06 ) they are pretty capable. IIRC the 08-09 had better valving and better spring rates than the softest out of all MY's which is the 06. Have you fiddle with the compliance bushing to make sure they arent stuck?

Also as viper mentioned, ap2's are a little stronger in the over rev dept. please keep us informed on the outcome with the subframe alignment ordeal. =)

Ill keep an eye here as well but as of right now im on the fence for new shocks, unless my stock units give out sooner than later.

 

If it were me, I would likely be going with a set of JRZ RS Pros from Brian at Karcepts.

I'm on MCS now, and he runs the RS Pros, and I've also driven on Motons. Very, very similar shocks, but the JRZs are over $1K cheaper, AND have significantly more fine-grained adjustment on the rebound side.

Both would require using the OEM lower perch (not difficult to do), and drilling out your top hat bushings. If you end up running something with 14mm pistons (I think only MCS), let me know Mike, and I'll send them to you.

The OEM dampers have a bunch of low-speed compression, whereas Koni Yellows, even revalved, don't / won't, just based on design. I would probably simply run stock shocks unless I could afford to run a shock with better compression damping than a Koni Yellow, revalved or not. At least IMO. And as said earlier, even a hack like Caserta can run with Lane Borg on the stock shocks.... (Kidding brother!)

 

You could try to get your hands on a "TC Kline" Koni 8242, w/ revalved bump curve.

Cheaper than most mentioned, except for the Yellows. It's a good value shock.