I have experienced fade with the setup that's on the car the last time I was at the track, and this was with ambient temps 30 degrees cooler than they will be in two weeks when I go back.

 

There is nothing inherently wrong with running wheel spacers. If you buy crappy parts or dont use them properly things can break.

 

You said your current set up is "decent street pads". Street pads fade, glaze or simply just wear out on track. Try track pads that can handle 800C (1400F). You'll be fine. +/- 30F when your talking temp diffs of 1000F between air and rotor is not significant.

 

Why in the dickens would I drop $200+ for track pads for the stock calipers when I have a BBK?

 

You asked for opinions. I gave you mine, you don't have to call me stupid. Wheel spacers are $200 bux too and you seemed concerned about their safety. You can buy Project Mu HC+800 for about $130 if you want to use accounting to make your decision.

 

For track use, if you're going to run spacers, I'd suggest doing it the right way...

The DRM spacers with integrated studs is fine for street use. If I were to use a 10-20mm spacer for track use, I'd go all out and replace my wheels studs with extended ARP wheels studs and run a traditional DRS type of spacer (no integrated studs).

That said, i've seen one of the top GTA Evos running spacers that haev the integrated studs.

 

Agreed.

And run the minimum spacer that will give adequate clearance. If a 3 mil spacer gives adequate clearance then run a 3 mil spacer.

 

I never called you stupid. I appreciate everyone's input. I just figured you'd respond and let me know why I'd want to do that. Wheel spacers are $200, and I can sell them for half that when my wheels that clear the BBK are finally shipped. I can't sell used up brake pads. It's coincidental that you mentioned the HC+800's though, since those are the exact pads I have on the car now, and the same ones that faded on me on the track. Nothing against them, they are a street compound. I'd expect them to balk at 30 minute lapping sessions at VIR.


I absolutely agree with you that extended wheel studs are a better way to deal with spacers. I have a set of wheels on order that clears the BBK without requiring the extended studs however. The spacer setup would likely only need to last for an HPDE weekend or two before I'd get rid of the spacers and run wheels with enough clearance.

Thanks again everyone for taking the time to respond to my noob question.

 

ive run a set of 20m ichiba v2 bolt on spacers on my evo for 15 track days and probably 10k street miles. i check them at the start of each day and always torque on with a torque wrench. many people will tell you not to do it, they did it to me too. eventually ill get around to extended studs but not until i can find suitable lugs to let me run factory wheels when not at the track.

i did however have a spacer crack BUT that was the one time i overtightened not using a torque wrench.

 

The essential thing when installing these spacers is to torque them down properly. If not done properly, they can come loose. This can be tricky as the rotor will want to spin. You may have to devise a way to jam the rotor to keep it from spinning. A little bit of red loctite on the fasteners doesn't hurt. I've had them on my car for many miles, many track days, running NT01s and have never even seen a hint of them getting loose. I marked each of the little cap things that bolt the spacer down to the hub with a sharpie to allow for a visual check if they are rotating loose. I haven't seen one rotate one degree yet. Anytime I have the wheel off, I check, and have not seen one come loose.

All that said, the ideal way to do it is to install longer studs and use a standard spacer. If doing that, you basically need to replace the bearings too. So, in the meantime, the KICS spacers do the trick.