OK, after this weekends HPDE, I am finally feed up with my cage. I am going to cut it out, and start over.

1. The side tubes are too close to my head. I have to lean to the left.

So to resolve this, I am going to cut a pocket in the HT to tuck the tube in. I am 5'11" and my Sparco Evo L is already mounted on the floor. To get lower, I would have to cut the floor pan, so the pockets seam like a great idea.

2. My A-Pillar tubes are too far from the A-Pillar.

All in all, the cage I have is better then just a bar, but it could have been so much better. So I ask you, what do you like about yours, and what would you have done differently now that you have driven yours for awhile?

I am thinking that a Halo design with fit this car the best. Thoughts?

The SCCA GCR spec the S2000 as a 3000lbs car for T3. That means I will have to use 1.65 x .120 or 1.75 x .095. So what OD is your cage made of? It is really hard to tell in pictures.

 

personally. i would love to have a harddog roll bar modified to be a cage.

kinda like a mugen cage + hard dog roll bar creation.

 

1.75 120wall dom Is what we use .

 

Strat,
make sure you read the rules really carefully they changed the cage stuff this year.
mine is .120 wall 1.5 od and was built back in 07
pockets on the hardtop are the only way to go.
here is a picture of mine

 

Crash I like that alot , mine should be very similar to that . Where did you mount the main hoop to the car ? I see alot of diferent places to mount . What do you think is best

 

here are more pictures
as for placement of everything you can see most in the pictures
if I were to change anything I would change the door bar placement to go through the body at the rear of the door to give a little more room and possibly bend them out.
the X bar is supposed to be the safest way to go about it and there have been many arguments about that over the years
another thing I may entertain would be to take the diagonal bar behind the seat and make it so it goes up to the pass side instead of the drivers for more room


tony at TC design did the cage

 

James

Thanks so much. I think I would fit in your car. I just wish Tony was not 2K miles from me.

Your pictures were exactly what I was looking for. What I would really like to see, is the following

1. A shot, shooting up from your seat to the the roof bar line.
2. The clearance for the A-Pillar bar
3. What the X bar is tied into the main hoop, and I assume the rear frame.

So technically, you have an 8 point bar because of the X mount point. The GCR specs that a bar from the A-Pillar down tube to the front firewall is recommend. What are your thoughts on that?

 

Why no NASCAR door bars?

 

I dont have a pic from the seat up but you can kinda see that in the pics posted
the clearance to the pillar should be as close as possible and even connected if you take the windshield out.
x bar the main hoop in front and body/rear hoop in back.
I will try to find a pic

pedal,
x bar is stronger but I may still change to nascar knows.
I may even go dirt track racing and pull a few teeth

Here are a few pics of some door bars I was looking into doing.
this is not a s2

 

Cage design, number of attachment points, mounting plate size/thickness, tubing size/thickness are all considerations depending on what the final use of the car will be. HPDE rules(or lack of restrictions) and SCCA T-3 rules are going to be vastly different and need to be considered before you begin construction.

Other considerations are whether or not certain interior trim pieces can be removed, doorpanels, windshield trim, carpet padding, firewall padding, that "tar" crap on the floorboards, etc.... We have seen all kinds of protests after someone assummed they could remove pieces during their build only to find out that if it doesn"t say you can do something in the rulebook......you can't.

The A-pillar bars cannot be attached/welded to the windshield frame as it would be considered an additional attachment point. Just as the hardtop cannot mount to the bar running along the top of the windshield even though there is no advantage and it makes it ALOT easier to make a mount in that particular location. Rear downtube angles are also spec'd and have a minimum and maximum angle. Damn rules.

In other words, get yourself a rulebook and read every sentence that pertains to the car and class that you are interesting in building. Crash was right, always get the current years rules as they do seem to change lots of little stuff every year.

Best of luck in the redo of your rollcage,

Dan