Caliper piston boots
Rears held up great though, and I used to track on OEMs and they were the first to go...couldn't even made oem rear pads last a weekend.Carbotechs are ok but you have to pick the right level to match the rest of the car (specifically tires). If you are running a fairly sticky tire, XP9's (are they still making 9's?) aren't going to cut it. You'll need at least X12 up front. The XP8 and XP9's ok for tracking when using tires over 200 tread wear ratings. You want their higher pads using tires with a tread wear rating of 200 or less.
Originally Posted by kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.

Keep them, they are good pads.
Originally Posted by RedCelica' timestamp='1412717743' post='23360387
Rears held up great though, and I used to track on OEMs and they were the first to go...couldn't even made oem rear pads last a weekend.Carbotechs are ok but you have to pick the right level to match the rest of the car (specifically tires). If you are running a fairly sticky tire, XP9's (are they still making 9's?) aren't going to cut it. You'll need at least X12 up front. The XP8 and XP9's ok for tracking when using tires over 200 tread wear ratings. You want their higher pads using tires with a tread wear rating of 200 or less.
So it doesn't really matter if the boots have cracks in them? I was told just the smallest amounts of debris can cause the seal to fail.
Originally Posted by RedCelica' timestamp='1412772052' post='23361086
[quote name='kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850']
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.

Keep them, they are good pads.
[/quote]
My problem with them is that they have a bad pedal feel and have a tendency to not hold up to heat as well. I don't like how spongy they feel. I swap in Cobalts, Hawk DTCs, or even stock after the event and the brakes feel great so I know its the pads. Also I feel like I have better control over threshold braking with the stiffer pedal of the two mentioned.
Originally Posted by Sebring AP1' timestamp='1412786560' post='23361477
[quote name='RedCelica' timestamp='1412772052' post='23361086']
[quote name='kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850']
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.
[quote name='kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850']
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.

Keep them, they are good pads.
[/quote]
My problem with them is that they have a bad pedal feel and have a tendency to not hold up to heat as well. I don't like how spongy they feel. I swap in Cobalts, Hawk DTCs, or even stock after the event and the brakes feel great so I know its the pads. Also I feel like I have better control over threshold braking with the stiffer pedal of the two mentioned.
[/quote]
You're describing the modulation. The modulation on carbotechs is an advantage, not a disadvantage. Look at spec miata. All of the front running cars in a class where every little bit counts is running these pads. That's not because they suck.
Constantly transferring pads and not rotors as well is only going to exacerbate this issue if that's what you're doing. There could be any number of reasons why you're not having success with them.
I use XP20 fronts and XP10 rear.
I like the feel and modulation.
I'm thinking about trying something with better metallurgy than the $35 centric blanks though. If I'm not meticulous about cool down procedure, they crack.
I like the feel and modulation.
I'm thinking about trying something with better metallurgy than the $35 centric blanks though. If I'm not meticulous about cool down procedure, they crack.
You're describing the modulation. The modulation on carbotechs is an advantage, not a disadvantage. Look at spec miata. All of the front running cars in a class where every little bit counts is running these pads. That's not because they suck.
Constantly transferring pads and not rotors as well is only going to exacerbate this issue if that's what you're doing. There could be any number of reasons why you're not having success with them.
Constantly transferring pads and not rotors as well is only going to exacerbate this issue if that's what you're doing. There could be any number of reasons why you're not having success with them.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't SM lack ABS? I can see how that would be advantageous there. I'm not consistent with pedal pressure when its that soft on my car where with a firmer pad I am.
Originally Posted by Sebring AP1' timestamp='1412786560' post='23361477
[quote name='RedCelica' timestamp='1412772052' post='23361086']
[quote name='kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850']
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.
[quote name='kapao818' timestamp='1412742685' post='23360850']
I would give WinMax a try. I didn't like how project Mu club racers brake pads starts to crumble.

Keep them, they are good pads.
[/quote]
My problem with them is that they have a bad pedal feel and have a tendency to not hold up to heat as well. I don't like how spongy they feel. I swap in Cobalts, Hawk DTCs, or even stock after the event and the brakes feel great so I know its the pads. Also I feel like I have better control over threshold braking with the stiffer pedal of the two mentioned.
[/quote]
Same thoughts as you. I'm not a fan of the pedal feel. Not to say they are horrible pads, but There are other pads out there with much better modulation, pedal firmness, and durability.
Yep, swapped back to oem pads last night and the pedal is hard as a rock...couldnt get that with the carbotech pads. Will look into Cobalts after I run through the rest of the extra set of carbotechs.
I have heard from quite a few others that they always felt like the carbotechs were more compressible than other pads. But brake pads really come down to personal preference once you are in the world of pads with high enough operating temperatures to deal with track use.
But back to the piston boot issue. Do I need these damn things? I am so sick of these single piston sliding calipers. Being in California where it will presumably never rain again would it be bad for me to just rip them clean out of the caliper? The piston doesn't end up with more play or anything like that without the boot does it?
But back to the piston boot issue. Do I need these damn things? I am so sick of these single piston sliding calipers. Being in California where it will presumably never rain again would it be bad for me to just rip them clean out of the caliper? The piston doesn't end up with more play or anything like that without the boot does it?







