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Catch can install

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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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Default Catch can install

My track only car has been blowing a fair amount of smoke in right handers ever since I went to R-comps.

I finally got around to installing a catch can. I used a large Husky oil/water separator from Home Depot after giving up on finding a good location for a "real" catch can. I had to modify it to seal the drain petcock in the bottom. it's useless.

Please see the pics and let me know if this is plumbed correctly. The PCV valve goes to the "in" side of the separator and the "out" side goes to the intake manifold.

Thanks


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Old May 16, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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Yes your setup is perfectly fine. Others have also done the breather hose (the other hose from the valve cover to intake), but in theory, air comes into the air cover from the intake through that hose so it would make more sense to install it the way you did, where the oil would be caught with air flowing from the valve cover to the intake manifold. So yes your in and out direction is correct.

What catch can is that and where did you get it? I've seen that one a couple of times on other people's S2000s. Edit: nevermind your post answerd my question
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Old May 17, 2010 | 06:29 AM
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How did you modify the petcock? I've seen them leak there as well.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cracknut,May 17 2010, 10:29 AM
How did you modify the petcock? I've seen them leak there as well.
Shims.

I disassembled the petcock to figure out how it worked. There is a spring in there that keeps a valve in the petcock open, which is supposed to close under positive pressure. that may work on an air compressor but not in this application. So I removed the spring, and then cut out little plastic shims to sit on top of the sealing valve. When the petcock is screwed back together, the shims force the valve to seal tight. It can be easily tested by filling it with water and seeing if it leaks. Finding the right # of shims was an iterative process.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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Nice job, that's a good clean install and I like the shim seal.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 06:19 PM
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It's best not to throw Blow By back in to intake manifold.

Option 1, off the valve cover in to catch tank then vent to atmosphere or filter
Option 2, valve cover to catch tank to oil pan, Weld or use fitting to replace drain plug.

I see a lot of people doing your current set up and im not sure why?
On our race cars we never put dirty/oily air back in to a intake or manifold..

Cheers
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Old May 22, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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The intake manifold is the only readily accessible source of negative pressure that can be used to positively vent the crankcase. The vacuum is used to draw the byproducts of combustion out. Oil just happens to be drawn out as it is being slung around in the valvetrain area. If you just vent the valvecover to atmosphere, then the blowby just sits in the oil and breaks it down, or, you do not have positive crankcase ventalation. You aren't even really pulling PCV under WOT. If you don't have a good oil separator (catch can), then the oil simply accumulates in the intake manifold and can be ingested under high load/high intake charge velocity. Some catch cans have three bungs, and one of them can be returned to the oil pan, though you still need a vacuum source to create positive flow through the crankcase.

That would be one plus to using an exhaust bung, as the scavenging effect would increase as engine load/RPM increased. Ultimately, you can just go to a vacuum pump which reduces windage loss as well.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Novak,May 21 2010, 10:19 PM
It's best not to throw Blow By back in to intake manifold.

Option 1, off the valve cover in to catch tank then vent to atmosphere or filter
Option 2, valve cover to catch tank to oil pan, Weld or use fitting to replace drain plug.

I see a lot of people doing your current set up and im not sure why?
On our race cars we never put dirty/oily air back in to a intake or manifold..

Cheers
Fair enough, but why would you put dirty air/oil back into the oil pan? I have seen option 1 before but I still need to pass emissions. Venting to the outside air via a filter doesnt cut it. If the catch can is doing its job, why not vent back to the intake? That's the way it was designed in the first place.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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Why are you referring to the oil from the crankcase as "dirty?" It was simply vaporized and is condensing in the catch can.

If you block off the outlet on the intake arm and route both valvecover outlets to the catch can, you should get better crankcase ventilation. That is how I run my setup and it works well.

A good baffled catch can is a requirement. These guys make good ones: http://www.saikoumichi.com/

Also the once for a Mustang (I think) from Billet Depot is what I use on my S2k. Good filtering, easy to mount, easy to drain.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dc_s2k,May 24 2010, 04:20 PM
Fair enough, but why would you put dirty air/oil back into the oil pan? I have seen option 1 before but I still need to pass emissions. Venting to the outside air via a filter doesnt cut it. If the catch can is doing its job, why not vent back to the intake? That's the way it was designed in the first place.
Right on.
When I said dirty I ment that oil/vapor is going back into the clean air flow intake or manifold.
That can't be doing any good for you.
On subaru's we always drain catch tanks back into crank case because it real easy to do so the same can be done to s2000s but is a lot of work to recycle oil.
The purpose of a catch tank is to catch oil that is getting blown by


On turbo cars it's a big no no to route the hose back in to the intake, I can't see why you would do the same on a NA car?

Venting the valve cover in any situation is ok your letting the pressure ventilate
Pcv is all emissions that's why it's there.

All good though, better to have a catch can than none.
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