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clutch fluid cooling?

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Old 11-01-2017, 05:40 PM
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Default clutch fluid cooling?

I attended my first track day over the weekend, and had issue with the clutch pedal getting heavy after about half a dozen laps.
I get the feeling that it was due to increased pressure/heat in the master/slave system as I developed a leak in the master cylinder.
Will a master cylinder cooler help at all, or are there any strengthened master/slave options worth looking at?
Old 11-01-2017, 05:45 PM
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Sounds like fluid/air. Run a good dot 4 and not ate, something like motul 660 or srf.
Bleed it out real good on the flush
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:40 PM
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Stick a speed bleeder in the slave and bleed it every 4-5 trackdays.
Old 11-02-2017, 08:20 AM
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If you have a leak in the master cylinder then you need to replace it immediately. Depending on what failed that will increase pedal effort (i.e. sticking seal or cocked rod). I honestly just use the RBF 600 in the clutch and just bleed it when I bleed my brakes.

P.S. also verify there isn't an issue with the slave cylinder. Replacement of the master is required at this point but make sure to shake it down for a few laps to rule out a potential slave cylinder failure too. Barring a malfunction of the pivot fork there's really not a lot to this system. A good preventative would be to also swap the rubber line out for a braided one between the master and the slave cylinder. Those rubber lines can deteriorate with age and old brake fluid which will cause them to add additional pressure to the system (think brake lines malfunctioning causing a caliper to seize).

That should cover about everything.
Old 11-02-2017, 01:46 PM
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Put some decent fluid in it before you go swapping parts. I have zero issues with my pedal on SRF.
Old 11-02-2017, 02:13 PM
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ATE is just fine especially for a clutch.
Old 11-02-2017, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmdohcpower
Sounds like fluid/air. Run a good dot 4 and not ate, something like motul 660 or srf.
Bleed it out real good on the flush
Why not ate?
First time hearing the contrary.
Old 11-02-2017, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FZXtreme
Why not ate?
First time hearing the contrary.
I'm sure ATE is fine for lower levels of HPDE but knowing how hard I beat the crap out of mine in 30-45 minute races, I'd rather run something that I know won't be the weak link. The wet boiling point of SRF (518*F) is nearly above the dry boiling point of ATE (536*F) so barring contamination, it's basically a once in a lifetime change.
Old 11-02-2017, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by InsaneSp
I'm sure ATE is fine for lower levels of HPDE but knowing how hard I beat the crap out of mine in 30-45 minute races
You're in a whole nother league, I don't think I've ever pushed my car nearly as hard.
I'll stick with my cheaper stuff lol.
Old 11-02-2017, 04:48 PM
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ATE is fine for a clutch though no matter how bad ass you are. If you are boiling your ATE then maybe you need to keep it from getting so wet

I’ve cooked my brakes many times but never had an issue boiling ATE fluid. I don’t run more than 20 minutes though.


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