I'm considering adding the Comptech adjustable front sway bar and x-brace. Anyone with track experience with these?

I'm planning to enhance my S2k for track use over the next 4 to 5 months, with most of my investment going into suspension and chasis.

Appreciate any input from those with track experience with above or other mods.

-MSM S2K

 

I really like the Comptech bar! During a recent track day at Sebring, my car has never before felt so balanced and controllable. I leave mine on the stiffest setting with Kumho V700 225/245 tires on the car.

Some history - Comptech came out with their adjustable swaybar for the S2000 in early 2001. This first version was prone to cracking and breakage, but they have greatly improved it with the second version. It is now made from hardened Crome-moly steel and there have been no reports of problems. It is expensive, but worth it IMO. An inexpensive alternative is the Saner bar that is now on the S2000 that has turned the fastest lap times at Sebring.

Here's a link to a recent discussion on swaybars for the S2000.

 

Great, glad to hear it's working well for you.

I'm also considering Kuhmo's for my next set of tires. Are the v700s the R compound / street tires from Kuhmo?

Thanks again for the feedback.

-MSM

 

Kumho has 2 R compound tires. One is the Victoracer, and the other is the Ecsta V700 (I think). The Victoracer is the older compound, but has the best available sizes for the S2000.

 

With the new bar, are you guys still having problems with adjusting the stiffness (bolt getting stuck)?

 

Not if you loosen an endlink first.

 

I understand why that would be the case if the sway bar is preloaded, but that sure does seem like it defeats the benefit of the bar...

 

It's doable without loosening an endlink (with lots of effort) but the bolt is such a snug fit that I found it easier in the end to do it this way. I agree it's not as convenient as you would think or as was probably intended by the designer.

 

I find that leaving the bar on its stiffest setting works well for me. I've been mostly autocrossing on concrete, but even on a few events that i have done on loose asphalt l don't have a problem with understeer.

 

The old bar had a sleeve through the thinner/inner bar. That's what got the bolt stuck on mine. The new bar has no sleeve, only the holes the thickness of each wall. There seems to be little chance of it getting stuck again.

Also, if you use a separate bolt/bar/big toothpick in another hole to keep the bar aligned, there's no need to loosen an endlink. I have yet to need to do either (use a bolt/bar/big toothpick OR loosen an endlink) to adjust mine. The part about getting the bolt stuck was where the bolt essentially corroded into place and had nothing to do with alignment.