Even if you are not overcooking the corner, I bet that with your current FSB being on your 2nd to the stiffest setting, you will still likely understeer even with this reduced stagger.

-Dave

 

Ryan,

When I had the FSB, I was running 225/245 RA1's. So with reduced stagger on the not so sticky R-compounds, that 2nd stiffest setting was a slightly understeer biased and kept the inside rear wheel down. You're setup and probably driving preference is going to be a little different, so you'll have to figure out what the best configuration is going to be. But since you're just starting, as the guys above mentioned, don't forget about working on driving technique.

But the basics, stiffer front swaybar equals more understeer. Of course there is going to be a bunch of understeer if you put a big stiffness increase on the balanced stock car. Definitely want to use the big FSB with a reduced stagger setup. Why do this? The wider front tires give more braking and quicker initial turn in. FYI, one of the reasons for the "crazy" stiff FSB is due to the SCCA autocross stock class rules which only allow for FSB modification. If there were no restrictions, people wouldn't necessarily go this route to modify the suspension.

Glad you got the shipment before your event, but I would of assumed that you wanted this for a new tire setup. Oh well, half the fun is screwing around with the car setup anyways

 

Thanks Fongu so I should be ok with the reduced stagger with the FSB. I'll probably turn down the stiffness on the bar a couple settings since I will probably be creating more understeer from the FSB than oversteer from the lower stagger, and then just play around with the setting on the bar from there.

 

You say that was the second time you autocrossed your car. Now does that mean 2nd time autocrossing? Or 2nd time autocrossing your s2k?

Don't make the same mistake a lot of people do by spending money before you learn to drive. Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt.

I've been autocrossing for a few years, but I just recently started autocrossing my s2k, and I'm trying my hardest to not spend any money til I learn to drive this car. The only thing I did was an alignment. Tires and bars will come later. No sense in spending money on tires if I'm just going to kill them.

I have to agree with what others have said though, the combination of the front bar along with your rear toe is not helping you at all.

 

it was only my second time autocrossing in the car, i've been doing it for 3 years and in 4 different cars so I have the experience just now in the car or rwd. so should I keep the rear toe in if im going to be running those new tires or should I go ahead nd set it back to 0?

 

Set it to 0 when you do change, but keep your current settings for now. Spend the rest of the year with your car the way it is and buy my old V710s ... they will last you the rest of the year if you treat them good. Dave and I both run a slight bit of negative (toe-in) toe in the rear. We both have our specs if you want to get an idea. The front has a bit of toe out, but overall the car has an excellent fell this year. You are welcome to a ride along at the Knox event to get a feel for my car's setup if you like. The guy who has helped me set mt suspension builds and sets up spec miatas and many other race cars for a living. Your car needs to rotate more so you can carry speed through the turns and so you can hold on to that initial line you take into a turn. My car responds best to smooth inputs and trail-braking. First off, your car will not rotate until you soften that front bar. Like I said before, keep your alignment specs for now, then adjust later when you pinpoint some areas for adjustment. I felt some push too at the training pad and I love my cars setup for now. That surface has many off camber spots and usually a tight course design. At Knox, the design will be very open. You will want a moderate push due to the various surfaces. The 1st (landing) runway can be very slick. With the speeds we carry there, any sliding from the rear will really slow you down. I would suggest putting that bar a setting or two up from full soft and keep your rear tire pressures similar to the fronts. The last thing you want is the rear to get loose and take out a landing light. You will have a better feel for the 2nd and 3rd runways. High speed slolams then high speed gates into the finish. Last time, I was in third through these sections all the way to the finish. Dave and I will help anyway we can. Seat time FTW!

 

And how about you share your experiences here for other beginner AS S2K drivers like myself.

sirbunz- What wheels do you have for your car? I can't really tell in your pic. What tires? What tire pressures do you usually end up with? Right now I'm running the stock tires, but I'll probably end up with some 710's for next season after I have a few more events under my belt with this car. I'm the only s2k driver in my region, so I'm just learning the car as I go. Any advice you can share is welcome.

 

Kosei K1-TS on the front ... not sure if they still make them in stock measurements or not. 245/45/17 front and 275/40/17 rear Kumho v710s. SWIFT solid front sway bar and custom alignment to complete the mods. Nothing special, but have found a setting I like with the car and proves competitive. Usually run 32-33psi in the front and 32-34psi (depending on conditions) in the rear. As for experiences, I can try my best, just pm me or start a thread with your particular question or interest.

 

There's nothing wrong with your rear toe - I run .25" total toe-in with no problems. The rear camber is a bit light, which could cause some oversteer, not understeer.

I've been autocrossing since 1974 (old fart). My setup last year with RE01Rs (205f/225r-16 - about .8" stagger) was -1.5deg. front camber, 0 toe, 5.x deg. caster, Comptech bar on full stiff. Rear was -2.0 camber, 1/8" total toe in. Pressures were 36f/32r. The only times I understeered was when I made it do so. The car was neutral to slightly loose (I shoulda used a bit more rear toe-in).

Seat time, practicing corner entry (if it understeers, you're doing it wrong). Tire pressures may be playing into it as well exact stagger but most of it is driver input...

 

Jeff, he's got an '04, you've got an '01. AP1s need more rear toe-in due to the dynamic rear toe, and because of the relatively higher rear roll stiffness.