Cordless Impact Drivers
I was just wondering if anyone here knows of any battery operated impact drivers that are robust enough to remove and reinstall the wheel nuts at the track.
Thanks,
Guy
Thanks,
Guy
Snap-on.
I have the low voltage model good for about 65 lb-ft so I still have to loosen the nuts manually, but I don't have to worry about over tightening anything either.
They have another model that's rated somewhere at 200 lb-ft or so, I think.
It's a great time saver regardless.
I have the low voltage model good for about 65 lb-ft so I still have to loosen the nuts manually, but I don't have to worry about over tightening anything either.
They have another model that's rated somewhere at 200 lb-ft or so, I think.
It's a great time saver regardless.
I have the DeWalt 14.4v. Its enough to get the lugs off but you it won't hit 80 ft/lbs putting them back on. Just torque to 80ft/lbs with the torque wrench.
Not to mention the thing is great for around the house. Way more useful than a drill.
Not to mention the thing is great for around the house. Way more useful than a drill.
Pep Boys carries one here in Phoenix that is 14.4 volts and has a max torque of about 85 ft/lbs (I believe - I know it is not more than that). Several people that auto-x here use them. It is a Nikota brand (Korean) and is only about $50. The price is the best part. It comes with one battery and charger.
Originally Posted by NYS2K,Dec 7 2004, 10:28 AM
I was just wondering if anyone here knows of any battery operated impact drivers that are robust enough to remove and reinstall the wheel nuts at the track.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/B00005RHQI
the Milwaukee 9079-22 (also sold at Harbor Freight). This thing rocks, with 240 ft-lb. With the wheel raised up and the brakes off, it zips the lug nut off so fast the wheel doesn't even move a bit. No need to break the nuts before jacking the wheel off the ground.
Then, when I put the wheels back on I use one of these:
http://www.torquestick.com/cart/customer/p...hp?productid=32
a 75 ft-lb torque extension. The torque stick acts as a torsion spring to limit the torque on the nut to about 75 ft-lb. Once I have installed all the nuts, I drop the car back down and finish torquing the lugs to 80 ft-lb with a torque wrench.
It's very fast and very easy. The only catch is that you should start the nuts by hand when you put them on, in order to make sure you don't cross-thread them.
I and many others use the Chicago Electric 19.2V cordless impact wrench, which is available from Harbor Freight for about $150. It's fast and powerful. I've been using it for about 2 years without any problems. It is also handy for loosening stuck or overtorqued bolts on other parts of the car.
My wheel change routine:
1) jack up the car
2) remove nuts with impact wrench
3) change wheels
4) spin on nuts with impact wrench, stopping immediately when the wrench starts to hammer (1-3 knocks, loosen and re-tighten if more)
5) Lower wheel until it contacts the ground and torque the nuts with a torque wrench
6) lower the car completely.
There is another Chicago Electric cordless impact wrench that's 18V and $100. I don't know how it compares.
My wheel change routine:
1) jack up the car
2) remove nuts with impact wrench
3) change wheels
4) spin on nuts with impact wrench, stopping immediately when the wrench starts to hammer (1-3 knocks, loosen and re-tighten if more)
5) Lower wheel until it contacts the ground and torque the nuts with a torque wrench
6) lower the car completely.
There is another Chicago Electric cordless impact wrench that's 18V and $100. I don't know how it compares.
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Originally Posted by Orthonormal,Dec 7 2004, 03:09 PM
There is another Chicago Electric cordless impact wrench that's 18V and $100. I don't know how it compares.
If you go the Chigago Electric route, make sure you get the one with the metal nose cap (the 19v) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=46701
You've got to be careful buying Chicago Electric; some is good, some is complete crap.
You've got to be careful buying Chicago Electric; some is good, some is complete crap.
Originally Posted by fluxen,Dec 8 2004, 12:47 AM
If you go the Chigago Electric route, make sure you get the one with the metal nose cap (the 19v) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=46701
You've got to be careful buying Chicago Electric; some is good, some is complete crap.
You've got to be careful buying Chicago Electric; some is good, some is complete crap.





