2000 ap1
f22
vortech v2
buddy club n+
front x-brace
spc rear upper balljoints
godspeed rear bumpsteer correction/toe arms
rpf1 17x8 front 17x9 rear
225/45 and 255/40 direzza z2

Car is used as my daily and is pushed through its paces on a regular basis. This car will also be autocrossed quite a bit this season.

I aligned my car the other day to my own specs and just wanted some input. Note: measurements are in actual degrees not degree minutes.

 

Too much rear camber and not enough front for my taste.

 

Definitely too much rear camber for that amount of front camber. Did they make any attempt to set the caster the same on both front wheels?

 

Didn't notice that, get that fixed too. That thing is going to corner like a sled IMO.

 

Thank you all for your input! The aligner was myself. So any fault is my own, but I can redo it anytime so not a big deal.

The rear camber has me a bit baffled. I am not very low (1+ inch fender gap) but have had a hell of a time with tire to fender/bumper contact in the rear even with a roll, relocate, and bumper trim. The only way around it was to run slightly more camber than desired. I think my biggest problem is the buddy clubs are too soft for my driving style and have excessive compression under load.

As far as the front, a seized camber adjuster left me helpless since i didn't have a new one on hand if I torched this one out. So i just matched one side to the other then set caster afterwards. I ran out of time to perfect the caster that night. How detrimental is the side to side variation currently?

 

One degree is quite a bit of variation. It can be hard to get it perfectly the same, so I would except .1 degree variation side to side. If you have to run that much rear camber and you want the car to handle better, then I would run at least the same amount of camber in the front which will probably require some new parts.

 

Well how low is your car?


Also +1 for more front camber

I have a hell of a time trying to figure out toe in degrees, as I learned it in inches (which is silly, seeing as I'm Canadian and all...) But I think you don't have enough rear toe in, considering you have a vortec v2. Can someone else pipe up on this too?

 

Factory rear toe is spec'd at 0.25* total toe in if I'm not mistaken. With my rear bumpsteer setup/toe arms I figured I could get away with less toe in since they should limit the toe out under compression. At least that's my theory lol. Fender heights are around 25.25" btw

I will try to square away the caster soon. Is the front camber enough if the rear was less, or in general is it not enough? I'm trying to find a good compromise between the staggered tires, alignment, and power. If anything, I prefer a car that oversteers. Thanks!

 

I would max caster, making it even on both sides.

Then max out front camber, should be able to get -1.75.

Zero front toe.

Rear camber slightly less than front.

Rear toe? Not sure what to tell you seeing as you have bumpsteer correction.

What are your rear offsets? Mine is lowered about an inch with -2.7* camber in the rear. I'm running 17x9 +63 with no rear fender mods.

 

Its the rpf1's not having the right offset thats likely causing the need for that much rear camber. For a 17x9 you should have over +60 offset. I have 17x9's (tr motorsports) all the way around. I am lowered with 13 1/8" from hub center to fender lip in the rear. My rears are not rolled and I dont rub with -2.6 deg of camber in the rear. The silly +45 offset does not allow for that.

With my setup I was aboe to get about -2.4 def of camber up front with stock adjustors. You definitely should dial in more up front if you can. As mentioned, having just a tad more rear camber is good, but not as much difference as you have.