the reason I don't run them is never found it made any difference.

*shrug* no harm installing them of course.

 

IMO your problem has to do with the pads you are using and not the rotors. Try stepping up to a more aggressive compound (either XP12 or Cobalt XR2 or XR1). Its always my experince that XP10 does not have enough initial bite or torque to slow down the S2000 (due to its weight). This means your standing on the pedal to stop the car and running very high temps. A more aggressive pad should let you run cooler and prevent breaking rotors every time out.
If your breaking rotors like that I'll be willing to bet that you've noticed that your starting to get some fade and ABS is impossible to engage. I boiled fluid with XP10 on a track that is not that hard on the brakes.

Of course it could just be the track (looks like your on a speedway in in your profile pic) but, I really think the pad is not able to handle the weight of the car.


I don't run any ducts and I actually have problems keeping the pads up to temp on cool laps.

-Rob

 

[QUOTE=krazik,Nov 1 2009, 10:09 AM] the reason I don't run them is never found it made any difference.

*shrug*

 

Wow if you are talking like this to Ryan you most likely have never meet him. Don't start. He know his stuff.

He helped me change my rear axle at the track in 20 mins. And if I was unable to find one that day he was willing to part out his track car just so I can run that day.

 

hehe it's Rylan lol

 

FWIW - we ran Cryo treated rotors in our Grand Am ST car (Acura TSX) -which was way under-braked with small rotors, heavy car, and ran into similar problems the S2000 faces.

We noticed an improvement in rotor wear (due to aggressive pads) than non cryo-treated rotors. In terms of rotor cracking prevention, I cannot comment since we never had rotors crack as consistently as the S2000.

I would venture to say that cryo-treated rotors do make a difference, but a minimal one at that. If you are stuck with rules dictating what you can do and run, then it might be worth it. For everyone reading here, I think there are better choices and much more cost-effective ones as well.

Is cryo-treating bad? No. Is it worth it? If you have the money, sure, but probably not.

Realistically, start using temperature strips on the rotor hub or rotor paint to find out how hot the stock rotors are really getting.

I'd also suggest ducting the brakes, for heavily tracked cars theirs no reason not to.

Billy

 

Thanks guys for the off-topic feedback regarding ducting. I figured it would only be a logical addition considering how often you guys are reporting cracked rotors.

 

My seat of the pants testing was that I cracked less without ducting. And I assume it was because the outside wasn't getting cooled as much as the inside.

 

Thanks for all useful information guys!

 

Brake ducting should be focused on getting the air to the inside of the rotor, forcing the air out through the internal Vanes. Blowing air on the face of the rotor itself won't help much in overall cooling of the rotor, but it should help recuce cracking more than no ducting.