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Diffs and Coolers

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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 02:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by stocky,Jan 1 2008, 02:23 PM
Yeah right on the Torsen diff...I know how it works compared to a clutch type...strangely it worked for me so far....cant remember that i changed something else except tyres.
The extra hp from the supercharge has made it a lot worse, but I'd only say it was more manageable before, but always a problem.

-Ry
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by krazik,Jan 1 2008, 11:00 PM
The extra hp from the supercharge has made it a lot worse, but I'd only say it was more manageable before, but always a problem.

-Ry
Right, its is really at the limit to deal with sometimes.
You really have to be carefull with applying throttle sometimes.
I can figure that with the torque of teh S/C it would reallly get annoying and loss of time out of corners
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #23  
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if you can't be full throttle as long its always costing you time out of the corners.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 07:18 PM
  #24  
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I'm going to suggest that maybe you fix the inside wheel lift problem at its source rather than put an expensive band-aid on it. Dumbass.


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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #25  
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the bandaid is to comprise the setup to keep the wheels on the ground with enuf grip to keep the diff locked. you don't have to fully lift a wheel to get wheel spin. as you know.

I've fracked (bsg ftw) with the setup for years thinking I could work around it.

I can redesign the rear suspension or buy a diff that can keep the power on the road.

Diff is much cheaper.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #26  
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Allstar battle of the admins?

The lift may never been encountered by a driver on street tires who doesn't AX. Lift doesn't really happen until R-tires or very abrupt turns. The lift can be readily cured by a stiffer front bar or removing the rear bar (or any combination of things, including new springs, to achieve the same affect).

Changing the rear to a plate style or an R Torsen doesn't do anything for the lift. That is a roll stiffness issue.

Doing both can increase traction significantly, but just changing th bar is the most inexpensive and may cure the "problem" outright.
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