Done with R4S on the track
Alan,
Thank sounds like an accurate summary...very useful for people doing a quick search!
Carbotech has a new compound out (production not to start until mid-February), called the Panther XP, or just "XP" for short. It has performance which handily outperforms the R4 or the Hawk Blue - performs on the level of the discontinued Hawk HT-9 - this is straight from the horse's mouth (a race driver who has used all of these compounds). In addition, the XP touts excellent modulation and release, and consistent performance in the wet or the dry, and is good from 200F-1450F+. It is recommended for track use only, but can be driving to and from the track, with the only caveat being that it requires more heat than the P+, and thus lacks the strong initial bite when cold that the P+ has. The XP is also rotor friendly, and has excellent wear rates.
Andie
Thank sounds like an accurate summary...very useful for people doing a quick search!
Carbotech has a new compound out (production not to start until mid-February), called the Panther XP, or just "XP" for short. It has performance which handily outperforms the R4 or the Hawk Blue - performs on the level of the discontinued Hawk HT-9 - this is straight from the horse's mouth (a race driver who has used all of these compounds). In addition, the XP touts excellent modulation and release, and consistent performance in the wet or the dry, and is good from 200F-1450F+. It is recommended for track use only, but can be driving to and from the track, with the only caveat being that it requires more heat than the P+, and thus lacks the strong initial bite when cold that the P+ has. The XP is also rotor friendly, and has excellent wear rates.
Andie
Nope, Zot is just a name I use online a lot and for playing games. No tie in with UCI...
Prolene, thanks for the offer, would love a ride. I will most likely be in the beginner group again. Maybe move up to middle group if I feel I am doing ok but I will wait to see on that
Thanks for the encourgagement in regards to the pads to but to answer the question about how to break them in...Nope...no one told me anything about that. What should I be doing or not doing? I have had them on for a few days (Friday) and not noticed anything different.
EXCEPT...today when I was driving home I now hear a small clank noise whenever I push on the pedal when moving or go over bumps. Sounds like a loose pad or something. Any ideas? No effect on driving or breaking just the noise. I am going back to where I had them installed for them to check it out. Came home to get all my old parts first.
Anyone have this before? It is really bugging me. It sounds like something is just loose, like a pad or metal backing on the pad or something. Please let me know.
Thanks.
Prolene, thanks for the offer, would love a ride. I will most likely be in the beginner group again. Maybe move up to middle group if I feel I am doing ok but I will wait to see on that

Thanks for the encourgagement in regards to the pads to but to answer the question about how to break them in...Nope...no one told me anything about that. What should I be doing or not doing? I have had them on for a few days (Friday) and not noticed anything different.
EXCEPT...today when I was driving home I now hear a small clank noise whenever I push on the pedal when moving or go over bumps. Sounds like a loose pad or something. Any ideas? No effect on driving or breaking just the noise. I am going back to where I had them installed for them to check it out. Came home to get all my old parts first.
Anyone have this before? It is really bugging me. It sounds like something is just loose, like a pad or metal backing on the pad or something. Please let me know.
Thanks.
Just to put my 2 cents in here also.
Prolines car will have the #3 racing pad on the front and the rear of his car . We will be doing rotor temperature testing of the S-2000's that wish ,on Saturday at Button Willow . I keep seeing the same information on pads . Ok for the track but they will eat your rotors on the street !!!!!!!!!
This #3 pad is now made for the stock S-2000 calipers .
IT WILL NOT EAT YOUR ROTORS!!!!!!!!
You can use it cold on the street . ( a lot of dust , some noise , no corrosive dust)
You can beat the piss out of it on the track .
No rivets ( integral to backing plate , holes in backing plate with material poured in)
We should have some interesting information from different cars , with different pads , with different drivers .
brad
Prolines car will have the #3 racing pad on the front and the rear of his car . We will be doing rotor temperature testing of the S-2000's that wish ,on Saturday at Button Willow . I keep seeing the same information on pads . Ok for the track but they will eat your rotors on the street !!!!!!!!!
This #3 pad is now made for the stock S-2000 calipers .
IT WILL NOT EAT YOUR ROTORS!!!!!!!!
You can use it cold on the street . ( a lot of dust , some noise , no corrosive dust)
You can beat the piss out of it on the track .
No rivets ( integral to backing plate , holes in backing plate with material poured in)
We should have some interesting information from different cars , with different pads , with different drivers .
brad
dwb1:
Is the Pagid compound for the S2000 a brand new compound? I'd be interested to hear your results after you get a set. Pagid is certainly very high quality...one of the other "competitors" products that I can't say anything bad about when it comes to predictable performance, so long as you choose the proper compound for your application.
Andie
Is the Pagid compound for the S2000 a brand new compound? I'd be interested to hear your results after you get a set. Pagid is certainly very high quality...one of the other "competitors" products that I can't say anything bad about when it comes to predictable performance, so long as you choose the proper compound for your application.
Andie
Reston, your pad decision will depend on the type of tracks you run on, and how hard you push the car. The stock pads are pretty darn good, and as long as they hold up to YOUR driving, I'd keep using them. If you switch to track tires, your straight away speeds will increase due to higher exit speeds from the pervious corner, but so will your entry speeds. If you so choose, you will be able to brake harder and shorten up your braking zones because the track tires will bite harder under braking. If you are happy driving the track at 8/10ths or so, the stocks will probably work. If the pads are inadequate, they won't suddenly fail. You'll notice their performance falling off by requiring more and more pedal effort to accomplish the braking. If this starts to happen, just take it easy, lengthen your braking zones and get through the weekend. Then, try Panther + next time out. I think they are the best track/street pad available. I have never heard of, or experienced any loss of performance from using P+ on the street. Just use generous anti squeal compound to help keep them quiet!
Originally posted by reecespieces
Andie is the dust from the XP race pads non-corrosive like the P+?
Andie is the dust from the XP race pads non-corrosive like the P+?
Further, unless you are running a very high-performance street tire (at minimum) - such as S-03PP, S-02PP, BFG G-Force, Michelin Pilot Sport, Yokohama AVS Sport, Yokohama RE010, Yokohama A022, etc. - then the XP will be overkill. In general, if you run XP on the track, you should have R-compound tires (V700's, R1's, A032's, etc.).
With Best Regards,
Andie Lin



