First time tracking the S!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 225
Likes: 7
From: SoCal
good list there except for the Giro's. Blanks would probably suffice for now.As for tire choice, the RS3's are a great track tire but not if it's going to be your daily tire as well. I would stick with Firehawk's.
Cheers
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,507
Likes: 231
From: Miami, FL
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 6
From: Reno, Nevada
We can help you out with everything on your list (we have all of it in stock and ready to ship) but I agree with the others that some of the parts (the rotors specifically) aren't 100% necessary to get out on track. If you end up enjoying it and want to start tracking the S often it's worth it to take a look at them but for now I think you're better off saving your money and seeing if you enjoy it before going overboard.
Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Pleasanton I can let you try on some helmets. I have a medium GP-6S and can get a GP-5W here for you to try on as well.
As far as tires I also agree that you don't need an EHP street tire or anything more aggressive to get out on track. I haven't personally tried the new Firestones (Bridgestone RE003 everywhere else in the world) but I have had success with their predecessor, the Bridgestone RE-760 sport and have been interested in the new version to run on my other set of wheels. So far the best of the max performance or UHP tires I've been able to track/drive aggressively and not have any significant chunking issues is the Sumitomo HTR ZIII but the new Firestone is newer technology and looks to have a little less tread squirm when new compared to the Sumitomos
-Matt M.
Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Pleasanton I can let you try on some helmets. I have a medium GP-6S and can get a GP-5W here for you to try on as well.
As far as tires I also agree that you don't need an EHP street tire or anything more aggressive to get out on track. I haven't personally tried the new Firestones (Bridgestone RE003 everywhere else in the world) but I have had success with their predecessor, the Bridgestone RE-760 sport and have been interested in the new version to run on my other set of wheels. So far the best of the max performance or UHP tires I've been able to track/drive aggressively and not have any significant chunking issues is the Sumitomo HTR ZIII but the new Firestone is newer technology and looks to have a little less tread squirm when new compared to the Sumitomos
-Matt M.
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 104
From: Mt. ________
Appreciate everyone's feedback!
Ricky, your thoughts on the Firestones are spot on. That was my reasoning for picking those, vs. RS3s. In additional to our other discussion on BFG GForce Comp2 (same class at Firestones) being the spec tire for Skip Barber, is another good point. Finally, there seems to be a lot good review/feedback for the Firestones on TR's website, and that's saying a lot as the BFG's are the baseline in that perf category.
Yes, if I get addicted to tracking I will think about getting another set of OEM wheels + stickier tires.
As far as brakes go, my initial thought for the Girodiscs were throw them on and forget about them (for occasional track / DD). So the value (not just $, but time) but not having to deal with cracked rotors at the track. I've been monitoring Andrew Hake's built thread regarding these rotors, and besides the first batch for the S2K, I haven't heard him mention about cracks.
If that isn't true, I'm more than happy of saving a few bucks and just purchasing a few sets of blank OEM sized rotors.
Cheers,
Alex
Ricky, your thoughts on the Firestones are spot on. That was my reasoning for picking those, vs. RS3s. In additional to our other discussion on BFG GForce Comp2 (same class at Firestones) being the spec tire for Skip Barber, is another good point. Finally, there seems to be a lot good review/feedback for the Firestones on TR's website, and that's saying a lot as the BFG's are the baseline in that perf category.
Yes, if I get addicted to tracking I will think about getting another set of OEM wheels + stickier tires.
As far as brakes go, my initial thought for the Girodiscs were throw them on and forget about them (for occasional track / DD). So the value (not just $, but time) but not having to deal with cracked rotors at the track. I've been monitoring Andrew Hake's built thread regarding these rotors, and besides the first batch for the S2K, I haven't heard him mention about cracks.
If that isn't true, I'm more than happy of saving a few bucks and just purchasing a few sets of blank OEM sized rotors.
Cheers,
Alex
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 104
From: Mt. ________
My recommendation would be only worry about this:
- Arai GP-5W helmet: Still need to find a local Arai dealer to try on a helmet. I think the GP-5W doesn't have alternative shapes (default, vs oval)
- Project Mu HC+800 pads
- Project Mu G-Four 335 fluid
- Firestone Firehawk Indy (in OEM size)
I have a Arai GP-6S in L. I found Arai's measurement system to be pretty accurate though so just follow those guidelines.
If your OEM brake lines are in good condition they will be perfectly fine. When the brake fluid is replaced and bled I would do the same with the clutch system with the same fluid.
If the rotors are well worn it can't hurt to get a new set of OEM 1 piece rotors to go with the new pads. If they aren't heavily worn they should be fine as is. The HC+800 dust quite a bit more than the Project Mu club racers in my experience so I would spend the money saved on rotors and other things and put the money towards the slight upgrade in brake pad. The extra money spent might get you a little extra life out of the pads overall. Brake pad and rotor life is ALL about managing the heat properly. Just like happiness brake life is a choice. It is common for someone who is new to sort of ease into the brake pedal and end up generating more sustained heat overall over the course of a lap. Just like most things in driving, braking should be a quick deliberate and single process. Keep initial braking quick and deliberate and ease off the pedal quickly to smoothly transition back to throttle. If your initial braking is gentle it is easy to fool yourself into thinking the is the latest you can brake, and that is almost never the case.
As others said, make sure you get in a solid cool down lap not using the brake at the end of the session, going as quick as possible using only engine braking.
I don't know anything about those tires but if Ricky and Matt say yes than I say yes. Get a fresh alignment to match and you should be good to go. For transmission oil I would recommend Amsoil MTF and Amsoil severe gear for the diff. Of all that I have tried Amsoil MTF works the best for me.
A good tire pressure gauge would also be a good purchase. You really don't need anything fancy just something reliable and easy to read. I wouldn't really worry to much about tire pressure initially but it is a good idea to keep and eye on pressures between sessions just to make sure the tires haven't got a puncture or anything. If you leave pressures at the normal 32 to start and then bleed down
- Arai GP-5W helmet: Still need to find a local Arai dealer to try on a helmet. I think the GP-5W doesn't have alternative shapes (default, vs oval)
- Project Mu HC+800 pads
- Project Mu G-Four 335 fluid
- Firestone Firehawk Indy (in OEM size)
I have a Arai GP-6S in L. I found Arai's measurement system to be pretty accurate though so just follow those guidelines.
If your OEM brake lines are in good condition they will be perfectly fine. When the brake fluid is replaced and bled I would do the same with the clutch system with the same fluid.
If the rotors are well worn it can't hurt to get a new set of OEM 1 piece rotors to go with the new pads. If they aren't heavily worn they should be fine as is. The HC+800 dust quite a bit more than the Project Mu club racers in my experience so I would spend the money saved on rotors and other things and put the money towards the slight upgrade in brake pad. The extra money spent might get you a little extra life out of the pads overall. Brake pad and rotor life is ALL about managing the heat properly. Just like happiness brake life is a choice. It is common for someone who is new to sort of ease into the brake pedal and end up generating more sustained heat overall over the course of a lap. Just like most things in driving, braking should be a quick deliberate and single process. Keep initial braking quick and deliberate and ease off the pedal quickly to smoothly transition back to throttle. If your initial braking is gentle it is easy to fool yourself into thinking the is the latest you can brake, and that is almost never the case.
As others said, make sure you get in a solid cool down lap not using the brake at the end of the session, going as quick as possible using only engine braking.
I don't know anything about those tires but if Ricky and Matt say yes than I say yes. Get a fresh alignment to match and you should be good to go. For transmission oil I would recommend Amsoil MTF and Amsoil severe gear for the diff. Of all that I have tried Amsoil MTF works the best for me.
A good tire pressure gauge would also be a good purchase. You really don't need anything fancy just something reliable and easy to read. I wouldn't really worry to much about tire pressure initially but it is a good idea to keep and eye on pressures between sessions just to make sure the tires haven't got a puncture or anything. If you leave pressures at the normal 32 to start and then bleed down
