Does anyone know if there are floorjacks that I can buy that require only a few pumps as opposed the the factory supplied one?

Also, I'm looking to buy a gun that can tighten/loosen lugnuts. I need it to be usable without plugging into an outlet.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

I use this jack from harborfreight: aluminum jack It will not reach the central jacking point for the front without driving up on a couple of 2x4's, but it reaches the side point and rear points with no problem.

I usually break the lugs loose with the lug wrench from the tool kit, then spin them off with a cordless electric drill set on low speed. When putting them on, I start them by hand, spin them tight with the drill, then finish with a torque wrench.

 

I use the Milwaukee 9079-22 impact wrench. Works great. Breaks the lugs loose whether or not the wheel is free to spin. I use a 75 "torque stick" torque limiter to screw the lug nuts back on -- the Milwaukee doesn't come with a clutch.

http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B00005R...161069-5247109

Also available from Harbor Freight, usually for less money than Amazon, so shop around. But I think you won't get it for less than $300. It's worth the money, though. I've tried cheaper ones and they sucked.

 

Hopefully this will be helpful - http://www.vorshlag.com/tech_jacks1.asp

 

Ahem...uhh...aside from the floorjack and impact wrench, I like your Avatar

 

Like most other things in life..."How much do you want to spend?"

$199
http://www.goracin.com "A NASCAR STYLE ALUMINUM 2 PUMP RACE FLOOR JACK $"


$800-$1000
http://www.goracin.com/INDEX/NASCAR_style_..._RACE_JACK.html

$1500
http://www.goracin.com/INDEX/MPD_Pit...RACE_JACK.html

Cost Unknown:
http://www.projacks.com/62403.htm

-Justin

 

I use and recommend the Harbor Freight jack. Be aware that HF now sells two styles, the larger rapid-pump aluminum jack (for around $130) and a smaller aluminum jack that is less expensive (~$90), but requires a greater number of pumps to lift a car sufficiently high for wheel changes. IMO, the smaller version may be better for portability and the larger one is more stable and easier to use.

I've recently noticed Pep Boys selling a similar (re-labelled?) jack for about the same price as HF, and Sears has one for a bit more money ($170-200).

 

I use a 12v cordless impact wrench (with 3/8" driver attachment; impact driver would be even better). It's not powerful enough to over tighten, and is lighter than the higher voltage ones. It's always best to use a torque wrench to tighten after using the impact wrench. You'll need to break the lugs loose with a separate tool. With some rims like the Volk CE28N, the space around the lug is too tight for a real impact wrench socket (thick black ones) to fit, so you have to use a regular socket, another reason not to use a high-torque impact wrench that could shatter the socket.

 

I've noticed that Pep Boys and Checker Auto Parts advertize 18 volt cordless drills for about $29. I usually break the nuts loose with a wrench, then spin them off with a cordless drill. For installation, start them by hand, spin them on with the drill and then tighten to torque with a torque wrench.

I have used a 9.6 volt Makita cordless drill, but it runs out of juice too quickly, so we going to go the 18 volt route.

 

There is a huge difference betwee an impact wrench/driver and a drill. Drills torque your wrist also. Highly recommend the cordless impact tool for the track. I have a 12v Dewalt and one charge lasts dozens of wheel changes, and it comes with 2 battery packs.