Flywheel / clutch / PP recommendations?
Looks like the tranny might be out of my car soon. I'm thinking of upgrading the clutch and/or pressure plate and/or flywheel while it's cracked open.
Right now I'm NA, stock clutch and flywheel, never street race, and never drop the clutch to launch. I'm interested in streetability, better track performance, and potentially will throw on a supercharger so I want to be able to handle added power.
Any thoughts on what clutch/PP combo has decent pricing, streetable driving characteristics, and decent wear? Ballpark pricing and suggested vendors?
What about a flywheel? I noticed many of the Speedventure track-hounds have non OEM flywheels. What is the key advantage? Improved throttle response? Reccomended brands, vendors and pricing?
Thanks!
Right now I'm NA, stock clutch and flywheel, never street race, and never drop the clutch to launch. I'm interested in streetability, better track performance, and potentially will throw on a supercharger so I want to be able to handle added power.
Any thoughts on what clutch/PP combo has decent pricing, streetable driving characteristics, and decent wear? Ballpark pricing and suggested vendors?
What about a flywheel? I noticed many of the Speedventure track-hounds have non OEM flywheels. What is the key advantage? Improved throttle response? Reccomended brands, vendors and pricing?
Thanks!
i have the comptech flywheel. having a lightened flywheel increases throttle response and midrange acceleration. I opted to keep the stock clutch/pp...the fact that it slips a bit gives a small safety margin in case of a misshift (and I've used that margin!)
comptech flywheel here too. Don't let anyone fool you, the s2k already has a very light FW and adding an ~8.6lb comptech or toda flywheel does require a bit more effort to get the car going. But you adjust to it in a couple days to a week and then you don't even realize it anymore.
I'd just stick with the stock PP and clutch unless you are running enuf power to make the stock slip.
I'd just stick with the stock PP and clutch unless you are running enuf power to make the stock slip.
I'm looking to upgrade my clutch simply because I'm having the TSB done, and instead of installing a factory clutch again, I'm going to have them install an aftermarket one (the dealer is fine with this).
Problem is I have no idea what to look for in a clutch. I know I want the pedal feel to be like it is stock... thats about it.
Problem is I have no idea what to look for in a clutch. I know I want the pedal feel to be like it is stock... thats about it.
I did some searching of past threads, and it looks like there are three flywheels:
Stock: ? lbs, ~$whocares
Spoon: 9.3 lbs, ~$495
Comptech: 8.4 lbs, ~$445
Toda: 8.4 lbs, ~475
Any others?
It also seemed like more than a few folks recommended the stock ('01 or later) clutch disk with a aftermarket pressure plate. Is this still being recommended? Even with FI?
Stock: ? lbs, ~$whocares
Spoon: 9.3 lbs, ~$495
Comptech: 8.4 lbs, ~$445
Toda: 8.4 lbs, ~475
Any others?
It also seemed like more than a few folks recommended the stock ('01 or later) clutch disk with a aftermarket pressure plate. Is this still being recommended? Even with FI?
I'll second Sideways assessment. Toda FW, stock disk and ACT PP make a great combo. I never ever have any of the clutch slippage problems I had before I installed this combo. Beware though that the ACT PP gives you a heavier clutch pedal. In normal driving its fine but it can get tiresome in stop and go traffic.
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I have tried a number of things and am not really thrilled with any of them.
The Toda flywheel was a good change as far as acceleration but it does change characteristics from a standing start. Normally not noticeable except maybe on hills. I would do it again.
Seems to me that modified pressure plates have different undesirable characteristics. The ACT PP type of change increase clamping with spring mod. Works but increases pedal pressure and supposedly puts more load on the other components.
The PP mods where the the fulcrum is changed (Star, CM) also work but change the travel in such a way that although pedal pressure is not greatly increased the clutch action is less linear and more abrupt.
Turns out that the OEM organic friction disk is a pretty good compromise. Many of the aftermarket puck disks have failed either with inadequate strength or fast wear of the limited friction material. I had poor wear with Kevlar but others seem to be ok.
If I had to do it again I would still opt for the lightweight FW (I don't think brand makes that much difference), and would try the Mugen PP (never been disappointed with their stuff), and use a OEM friction disk. Would spend the money to replace the bearings while I was in there, and be sure to clean and lube all the parts according to the book (which the dealership clowns skip).
The Toda flywheel was a good change as far as acceleration but it does change characteristics from a standing start. Normally not noticeable except maybe on hills. I would do it again.
Seems to me that modified pressure plates have different undesirable characteristics. The ACT PP type of change increase clamping with spring mod. Works but increases pedal pressure and supposedly puts more load on the other components.
The PP mods where the the fulcrum is changed (Star, CM) also work but change the travel in such a way that although pedal pressure is not greatly increased the clutch action is less linear and more abrupt.
Turns out that the OEM organic friction disk is a pretty good compromise. Many of the aftermarket puck disks have failed either with inadequate strength or fast wear of the limited friction material. I had poor wear with Kevlar but others seem to be ok.
If I had to do it again I would still opt for the lightweight FW (I don't think brand makes that much difference), and would try the Mugen PP (never been disappointed with their stuff), and use a OEM friction disk. Would spend the money to replace the bearings while I was in there, and be sure to clean and lube all the parts according to the book (which the dealership clowns skip).
This seems like a good place to ask about breaking in a clutch on a track car. A friend of mine just replaced his clutch, and is planning on breaking it in at TWS this weekend. I think he is going to toast it out there. However, he can't drive it on the street, so he doesn't really have a choice. Any tips?









