Trying to install the Gendron bar this weekend, already got the stock bar out. I have the instructions from Bill but I could use more details and pics if possible! Looking mainly for help/pics with the endlinks and getting arms on bar.

Appreciate any help!

 

I just did mine a couple of days ago, and the install went pretty smoothly, but I didn't take pics. The instructions that Bill gives are pretty good. At first I wasn't sure why he wants you to assemble the ends of the bar after you have the center section in place, but I realized it's because it would be hard (impossible) to get it in there with the ends on, because they are a lot longer than the OEM piece.

What position do you plan to put it on? I figured I'd try full stiff, and followed the instructions as such, putting the link on the front side of the eyelet on the suspension arm. Make sure the female rod (with the aluminum spacers) goes on the bar, not the suspension arm.

If you can get the car up high enough to get under it but still have the wheels on and supporting the car, it would make it easier because there will be more clearance between the bar and the shocks. I did it with the car on jack stands, and with the suspension at full droop, the upper rod end bolt was very close to the shocks, such that I had to put the bolt through the arm and rod end before putting the arm onto the splines.

Do you have koni shocks? If so, be aware that you'll need to bend the brake line bracket quite a bit (forward) to allow clearance for the aforementioned upper rod end bolt. MAKE SURE that they don't collide at full suspension droop! Mine has only about 1/16" clearance. (Yikes)

After I drove a couple of days my bracket bolts (the ones that hold the bar to the frame) loosened a bit and I had a nice loud BANG when I entered my driveway. I think the bracket just shifted. I torqued them again and it's been quiet since.

When tightening the two rod ends with the jam nut, be sure not to bind the rod end against the spacers. This can loosen this type of rod end and then they'll clunk like crazy. Make sure that there is as much rotational freeplay as possible in those rod ends once that jam nut is tightened. It takes a little fiddling because the rod end wants to turn when you tighten the jam nut.

When I was putting the second end on the bar, I had a little trouble getting it perfectly perpendicular to the bar before engaging the splines. I rubber mallet did the trick.

That's all I can think of right now. Sorry I didn't take pics.

 

Thanks for the info spa-zz! I have a few questions for you:

- I will be running full stiff, so I guess I should move the endlinks towards the front?
- how far should the arms go into the bar? There's a groove between the splines on the bar, and I don't think I can go beyond the groove, is that the way it's supposed to be?
- did you have to use the spacers with the bar?
- in the instructions it says 2 front and 2 rear settings, but there are 3 holes in the front and 3 in the rear??? Are the bigger holes used for anything?
- is there a preference as to where the bracket/bushing should be placed since it's slotted? Push it up, middle or down?
- does this install screw up the allignment at all?

I guess I'll need some ramps to do this right! I actually don't have the Konis, still OEM for now. Do I need to worry about the bracket as well?

Again, thanks for your help!

 

Thanks for the info spa-zz! I have a few questions for you:

- I will be running full stiff, so I guess I should move the endlinks towards the front? Yes
- how far should the arms go into the bar? There's a groove between the splines on the bar, and I don't think I can go beyond the groove, is that the way it's supposed to be? If I remember correctly, the groove is in the middle of the splines. The bolt should rest in the groove. Remove the bolt from the arm, slide arm onto sway bar, drop bolt in when groove lines up.
- did you have to use the spacers with the bar? Yes, the spacers are necessary. They fit between the bracket and the bar end.
- in the instructions it says 2 front and 2 rear settings, but there are 3 holes in the front and 3 in the rear??? Are the bigger holes used for anything? There are 6 adjustment holes, they should all be the same size. You can ignore the larger holes.
- is there a preference as to where the bracket/bushing should be placed since it's slotted? Push it up, middle or down? Push the bracket as far down as it will go to prevent the steering rack boots from rubbing.
- does this install screw up the allignment at all? Adding the sway bar will not affect the alignment.

I guess I'll need some ramps to do this right! I actually don't have the Konis, still OEM for now. Do I need to worry about the bracket as well? Ramps may be necessary, (or at least some boards under the tires.) The front suspension needs to be loaded when you install the endlinks. Ideally the car should be level too. I run stock shocks and found the end link to be too close to the brake line for my comfort level. I used a die grinder to remove the bracket and then zip-tied the brake line higher up on the shock.

I can't post pictures, but I have a couple that I can email to you if you post your address.

 

I agree with all Conedodger's answers.

 

Just to be sure it's clear, the groove in the splines is to help hold the arm on. You slide the arm onto the splines, and when the end of the bar is approximately flush with the face of the arm, the bolt should drop through the arm, passing through the groove in the splines. The bolt then provides the clamping force of the arm onto the splines, and also locks the arm in place by fitting into that groove.

Make sure you keep the instructions handy as you assemble. There are a lot of little details in there that will help you as you go, like the location of those spacers and the details of how to place the rod ends.

I suggest taking all the small parts and see how they fit. You'll find that each size bolt only fits properly in one place. For instance, the smallest diameter bolt is used in conjunction with the small stepped aluminum spacers and fits the female rod end and the arms. The others will fit the arm at the end where it clamps the bar, and last pair fits the male rod ends.

After you install, leave your lower tray off and drive for a while, then go back and re-torque if necessary.

 

Thanks a lot guys! I'll let you know how it goes! My problem with the arm is that I'm having a hard time pushing it in, without the bolt there! I'll try the other side today.

I thought I read somewhere that it should go as far up as possible?

 

Thanks a lot guys! I'll let you know how it goes! My problem with the arm is that I'm having a hard time pushing it in, without the bolt there! I'll try the other side today.

Make sure you are using antiseize on the splines. If necessary, you could open the split in the arm slightly with a screwdriver as you slide the arm over the splines.

I thought I read somewhere that it should go as far up as possible?

I've uploaded a couple of pictures to my Motorpride site that may help you. When you see how close the arm is to the steering boot you'll see why the bracket needs to be pushed down.

http://www.motorpride.com/PhotoGallery/?SiteID=809

 

Thanks for the pics! I did use antiseize, the screwdriver helped!

What about the spacers for the endlinks, did you have to use them? I got 4 of them, instructions don't mention what to do with them or where they should go!

 

Yes, you must use the spacers for the end links! If you don't you'll find something that doesn't fit right!

Each size (diameter) bolt only has one place it will fit. The smallest diameter is used with the small aluminum stepped spacers in the rod end that goes to the arm. The instructions say under step 7... "The links are mounted with the high angularity joint (male thread) on the suspension arm and the female rod end with the spacers attached to the sway bar."

The other two fit the arm clamp and the other rod end.

The large black spacers are referred to in step 3.