I am having some trouble with the install of my new solid gendron front sway. I have read all the previous posts but it looks like no one else has run into the exact same problem I have. I have the center bar and arms on. I have the car on a two inch block of wood (both wheels) that way I get the zero preload recommended. I got one endlink on the 3rd setting from the front, endlink hole to hole is 2.75" like instructions.

When I went to put the other endlink on the the holes lined up, the endlink is at a big angle and pivots are maxed out . it appears the pivots/ball joints on the endlink are pivoted to max, aluminums spacer on female end is popped out a bit too (since it is hitting the out diameter of endlink). (I attached the top/female part first since Otherwise I can't slide the bolt on with weight on the springs). The bottom part of the endlink is still a bit from the suspension mount eyelet. otherwise I would be tempted to torque it down

Here are my questions with dealing with this, since I am not super experienced with this.

1) can I raise part of the car to make it line up better, or will that hurt the preload?
2) can I adjust the bars on the splines (not sure if it will fix this) to align a little better or is it imparative they remain parallel?
3)should I just go to a stiffer/softer setting so it lines up better?
4) a smaller endlink length might help but I am assuming the 2.75" specified is important
5) Any other ideas?

Is there something I incorrectly did in my install? Man these clearances are tight!

I am going to double check to make sure the center bar is level when I get home and fiddle with it some more.
I don't have pics right now but can get some after work if it helps. Any help is appreciated!

 

The car is supported by the wheels? If the suspension is loaded when you install the bar, that *is* preload, as I understand it. Now, if the car is perfectly level, the preload won't be biased to one side, but it would be much easier to remove the wheels and support the car by jack stands at the front jack points.

Maybe I'm wrong, but when I installed my comptech, and when I adjust it, this is the procedure I use, except I don't need to remove the wheels to adjust it.

 

Do you have the end links on the correct side of the tab on the lower control arm? If the end links are on one of the 3 stiff setting it needs to be on the front of the tab. If it is on one of the 3 soft settings it need to be on the back of the tab.

Robert

 

So did you install the bar with the suspension at full droop? I was under the impression zero preload was the car sitting with no sways connected. Kinda like when you corner balance a car. I could be wrong though.

 

Yeah I am on the rear most stiff setting so I am on the front or forward part of the tab.

 

well I think I may have thought this through. the 2.75 in endlink length is a ball park to get where it should be. the reason why I am at an angle is I can't get the link any shorter. I should be able to correct this problem by lengthening the other endlink and thus creating more space on the other side without affecting pre-load. Bill at Gendron says that is fine and thinks that would be a fix. going to try it tonight and let you know how it goes.

He verified zero-preload is when the car is sitting on its own weight, ideally with driver in car.

 

[QUOTE=dnace,Jun 28 2007, 08:33 AM] So did you install the bar with the suspension at full droop?

 

As I look more, I find the most information for circle track racers, but I wonder if we could use swaybar preload as a mini corner wieghting tool for stock class autocrossers.

This is beyond my car setup skill. It's also beyond my talent level as a driver to use to it's maximum.

Maybe someone else can chime in on this.

 

Did you flip the end links to the opposite side of the lower control arm from stock?

 

I coul;d see it working either way. I got more clearance for the bolts by having it on the ground. Just a PITA to crawl under. I had someone sit in the drivers seat and the position changes slightly with him. Not sure it makes a noticeable difference though.




Well I fixed it I had to take the links out almost half an inch more. I am not even close to having strut/brake clip clearance issues but this moves by bar closer to the steering boots. I might wear them out quicker I guess but we will see.

I have it set on the third stiffest with 215/255 tire setup and 1.6 f-camber 2.4 rear and 1/4 toer rear. I notice a bit of understeer in wide circles but can be transitioned to oversteer with throttle lift. These are my street tires thought so tough to tell.


A big thanks to boll gendron for all the help. Fast delivery and good help. Mad props!