How easy is it to adjust the camber range once the TC Designs / GFL control arms are installed? Do I need to make adjustments before install?

Step-by-step instructions appreciated as I'm definitely a mechanical nub.

 

Adjustments can be made on or off the car, but the first thing you should do after getting them installed is take it to an alignment shop pronto. No matter what you do off the car, it will be SNAFU once you mount them

 

Well, that's good news 'cause they're already installed. Car has been taken to an alignment shop. They were only able to get -1.4 camber up front ... exactly the max before the install of the new a-arms.

Being a mechanical nub ... and not at all familiar with how to adjust these once installed, I wasn't able to explain it to the aligment shop ... thus this post.

What are the step-by-step instructions I should convey to the alignment shop?

 

I was able to get -2.5 in the front (everything stock except for the A-arms) but I had to get pretty close to the maximum adjustability. I think the parts are really designed more for cars that have been lowered.

Still, that extra -1 degree really changed the handling of the car.

My lap times were way down, but the track was also very slick. I'll see what happens once I get used to the new feel and the track is in better shape.

As for instructions, didn't yours come with some? Mine did -- a single sheet. The trick is to loosen up a lock nut, then turn the "adaptor" piece.

 

Hmmm ... no instructions with mine. Just a box with packing material and the a-arms.

Mr. Lude, are the instructions posted somewhere?

 

Hmm, nope, I don't have a copy of those. Page Rylan and see if he does. If not I'll try to get them from Tony tomorrow.

 

Rylan ... hello ... Rylan are you out there ... Krazik ... paging KRAZIK!

I'd like to get the instructions by Thu ... pls.

 

make everything shorter. I need pics.

There are 3 heim joints on the arm. 2 that attach to the frame and 1 that attaches to the upright.

You can shorten the 2 that attach to the frame by removing the bolt to the frame, loosening the set screw and screwing them in. You can move them quite a way in, especially if you're only getting -1.4. Set both of them to the same length for now. You shouldn't need to change these often.

The outer joint can be moved in and out without removing anything. You first loosen the 2 lock nuts. Outside one is left-hand thread and inside one is right hand thread. Once you loosen the lock-nuts you can spin the middle nut to move the heim join in and out to get the camber you need.

Once you have everything set make sure to torque the lock nuts with a good grrrugh and check them periodically to make sure they stay snug. You definitely don't want things loosening up

There is the 2 minute regurgitation, I hope it helps.

-Ry

 

Now that you mentioned it, this might be something to add to my track day inspection list.

 

with the wheels off its very easy to get to them.