I live over sea and I do lots of high speed crusing.(100mph+-)
S2000's stock brake is good enough for most low speed condition
but in high speed, disks were pretty easy to get warped and there were much fade.

I switched to Motul 5.1 fluid, hawks HPS pad and power slots slotted rotors(front and rear).
Initial bite is slightly better, more firm feeling on pedal and SLIGHT less brake fade.
But I'm not satisfied with this set up.

I was wondering how much improvement I can get with bigger brakes on front?
is it completely fade-free?? or warp-free?
I was thinking about wilwood 4-piston or 6-piston..but doesnt increased braking power on front makes rear unstable at high speed?


TIA

 

Interesting. I use race pads and OEM rotors on the racetrack and have never experienced any warping. I will admit I do replace them every year or so which is way before the minimum thickness.

After getting the brakes really hot do you give them anytime to cool a bit, like 2 or 3 minutes of driving?

Are you using a torque wrench to put your wheels on?

 

Since it is public highway, sometimes I do not have much time to cool off the very hot brakes.
I guess this is how I warp my stock disk, and I wonder how much of improvement I can see with bigger brake kit.

and Yes I torque my wheel nuts at 75lb with torque wrench.

 

You're not experiencing warp but instead pad deposits. A BBK will not solve the issue. Only proper cool-down is going to help. If the stock system works fine for people like krazik and rlaifatt at 10/10s on a track, there's absolutely no way they're insufficient for street use.

Of course, the stock brakes aren't very aesthetic, but we don't discuss cosmetics here. Neither do we discuss street racing. Do they not have racetracks in Korea?

 

A harder pad may be less prone to leave deposits, but may not work as well when not hot. (my guess)

 

Hawk HPS pads are not noticeably more fade resistant than the stock pads. If you're having problems with fade, do a search and try one of the many pads that have been recommended in this forum in the past.

Steve

 

If you're getting fade on the street you have to have air in the system. Try a thorough bleed and you should be fine. Seriously. If you're still getting fade after a complete bleed, venting is probably the best improvement you can make.

And my understanding is that if you're getting warpage it's not because you are overheating the brakes--it's because you're cooling them off too quickly somehow. Rotors can get red hot and still stay straight. But if you sit at a stop light, for instance, with the brakes on and super-hot rotors, you could get slight warpage due to one part of the rotor cooling down faster than the part that contacts the pads (it'd have to be a long stop light). Of course, using the ebrake is a no no on hot rotors, too. Also, I've seen several people generate a lot of steam hosing down their brakes while washing a car....that will surely warp 'em....

 

The shuddering is not due to warpage. It's due to pad deposits on the rotors. That is why you should not have the brakes engaged in a stationary position on hot rotors. It has nothing to due with cooling. If you look at a "warped" brake rotor, you will see a faint outline of the brake pad.

 

I really dont think it is air in the system or pad deposit.

Sometimes I brake hard enough to smoke(cooked) my front pads.
Few good braking from 120mph to 60mph were good enough to cook those pads and wrap my OEM disks.
Now I baby my brakes now...with new pads and disks.

btw
I'm not into any street racing...
It's all because 30mile stretch of EMPTY highway with stupid speed cameras every 2-3 miles...

 

Give it a rest... Let me guess, if you were in Germany you would drive 55mph on the Autobahn. Yea right...