Just picked up some adjustable end-links to get rid of sway-bar preload after a corner balance. I'd like to install them myself since the install seems very simple. The only thing I'm unsure of is how to make sure I actually install them with the correct length so that I DO fix the pre-load problem. Is there a special technique to this?

 

Get a set of ramps, drive the car on the ramps, then remove the endlinks. Install new endlinks, adjust length and orientation, tighten everything up, not too hard but may take you a little while if it's your first time. Stubby 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, open end wrench for adjustment and 14mm socket and socket wrench needed tighten links to bar and control arm.

 

Pasted from the instructions I had written some time ago:

Installation:
1) Jack up front of car (secure rear wheels with wheel chocks)
2) Remove both front wheels
3) Remove the OE end links from both drivers and passengers side.
4) Loosen the jam nuts on your new end links and adjust them to the exact same length as your OE end links. Since you can thread both ends out be sure to leave at least 1/8” of thread engaged on each ball joint.
5) Once the length is a match, re-tighten the jam nuts.
6) Install in place of the original end links in the following order::
Ball joint > zinc coated washer > sway bar > zinc plated nylock nut
7) Bolt wheels back on and lower car
8) Repeat process for rear axle

Adjustment and setting sway bar pre-load:
In order to properly set pre-load with adjustable end-links this process MUST be performed with all 4 wheels on the ground. This means you will need to be able to access the underside of the car during the process without using a jack. This may mean you need access to ramps. If you are not comfortable with this, you should let an alignment professional perform this process.

1) With the car at rest disconnect one end of one end link on each axle. This will remove any torsional load on the sway bar.
2) Loosen the jam nuts and adjust the end link until it can be re-connected without moving the sway bar from its resting position.
3) Repeat this process for the other axle.

 

If you're gonna be using ramps, you should put all 4 wheels on ramps.

Basically, to remove preload, the car needs to be settled (read: on the ground) when you install the endlinks. How you want to do this (ramps, 2x4s, crawl) is up to you, but the car should be firmly standing on an even surface.

 

Absolutely. If you only put the front up on ramps the weight distribution of the car won't be true and you won't be able to set the preload accurately. If you want to go the full 9, put whatever you weigh in ballast in the front seat.

If you have access to an open bay garage like an oil change shop, they are ideal for setting preload.

 

Everything that has been said plus the fact that my end-links are rusty means that I will have to wait a week for the alignment shop to do this. Dammit I just got all sweaty for nothing.

 

I have found the best way to do this is to do it when the car is on the corner weight scales.

1. Jack up the car and remove all the end links. It's easier if you remove the wheels but not necessary.
2. Install the new end links on the Sway Bar and leave the bottom end that attaches to the lower A Arm disconnected.
3. Put the car on the corner weight scales and do corner weigh the car. Be sure to have your scales level to each other and your fat A$$ is the seat. Or a hot neighbor chick + ballast (beer etc..)
This step is usually unnecessary because it doesn't change the end link lengths either way. However in terms of the chick it's essential.
4. While the car is still on the scales slide underneath (it's tight but doable) and adjust the end link so it slides right into the mounting hole without putting any tension on the Sway Bar install the nut and tighten. Jack it up to torque them, it's easier.
5. Drink Ballast with neighbor chick.
5. Be sure to get the car aligned.

Obviously you can do this on blocks, ramps or whatever as long as all 4 wheels are level and the car is secure.

If the old end links are rusted just spray some penetrating oil and hit(tap) them with something metal like a wrench to cause vibration so the oil penetrates. Leave for a few hours or overnight. Remember the stock end link have a allen wrench hole in the end of the stud so you use an allen wrench and box end combination wrench to loosen them.