I'm Out (maybe) - My S is For Sale
06-27-2013, 06:46 PM
#1
Former Moderator
Thread Starter
I'm Out (maybe) - My S is For Sale
After losing my 3rd engine in 4 years I'm going to have to say goodbye to my S2000 race car. We'll keep my wife's bone stock 2006 S for weekend top-down cruising but I've got to get a more reliable race car. I lost my original 2.0L engine in 2009 to a couple of money-shift over revs--I dropped a valve and destroyed the block and head. The sad thing is I was planning to do a valve adjustment and inspect the valve retainers after the engine's last track day. Only engine mods were a cold air intake, test pipe and exhaust.
I had a used 2.0L installed next and it lasted 2 years and suffered from some sort of oil starvation issue that caused piston # 2 to wear out to the point of it flopping around in the cylinder. I ran a generic oil pan baffle for most of this engine's life. I never let the oil level go below the half mark so I don't know what happened. My engine builder didn't find anything wrong other than the floppy # 2 piston. I chalked this up to being unlucky and getting a bum used engine. Only engine mods were a cold air intake, test pipe and race exhaust. I run a shift light set to 400rpm below the fuel cut so I can complete the shift well before hitting it.
My last engine was a brand new Honda short block 2.2L paired with my old head with a full refurbish and fresh valve springs and used with an AP2 ecu. The engine remained completely stock. My engine installer suggested I run Royal Purple 5w-30 for insurance. During a track day last week the engine lost power with an obvious cylinder out and started making the same kind of noise the previous engine did so it sounds like a floppy piston or very loose connecting rod. Only engine mods were an aluminum radiator, cold air intake, test pipe and race exhaust. Water temps were running less than 180 degrees on track. I had just installed an oil temp gauge but it quit working when I moved it from the top of the dash to in the dash--I think I pulled the sensor wire crimp loose.
I pulled out my logbook and added up the track time. I got 7 hours and 20 minutes out of the last engine which was a new Honda short block and my reconditioned head. The oil was changed from its break in oil after 45 minutes of track time to Royal Purple racing 5w-30.
I got 36 hours from my previous engine which was used. I ran Castrol full synthetic 10w-40 in that engine. I did a compression check on that engine 2 hours before I lost the engine with 254 to 258psi in all cylinders so when it went it went quickly.
I don't think it's a coincidence that Skip and I were the only 2 S2000's to run 1:21 and 1:22 laps at Summit Point and both of us have lost several engines. I don't know what the problem is but I can't afford to keep trying.
My plan is to install a used 2.2L engine and sell the sexy parts separate like the Puddymod 4.44 OS Giken differential, brand freakin' new RacingBrake front big brake kit, all 10 CE28 wheels with NT01s, a set of RPF1 17x9 +45 with R888 (rain) tires and revalved KW V3s then reinstall the stock parts.
I'm considering a street legal SSM Miata race car or maybe building a Factory Five 818.
I had a used 2.0L installed next and it lasted 2 years and suffered from some sort of oil starvation issue that caused piston # 2 to wear out to the point of it flopping around in the cylinder. I ran a generic oil pan baffle for most of this engine's life. I never let the oil level go below the half mark so I don't know what happened. My engine builder didn't find anything wrong other than the floppy # 2 piston. I chalked this up to being unlucky and getting a bum used engine. Only engine mods were a cold air intake, test pipe and race exhaust. I run a shift light set to 400rpm below the fuel cut so I can complete the shift well before hitting it.
My last engine was a brand new Honda short block 2.2L paired with my old head with a full refurbish and fresh valve springs and used with an AP2 ecu. The engine remained completely stock. My engine installer suggested I run Royal Purple 5w-30 for insurance. During a track day last week the engine lost power with an obvious cylinder out and started making the same kind of noise the previous engine did so it sounds like a floppy piston or very loose connecting rod. Only engine mods were an aluminum radiator, cold air intake, test pipe and race exhaust. Water temps were running less than 180 degrees on track. I had just installed an oil temp gauge but it quit working when I moved it from the top of the dash to in the dash--I think I pulled the sensor wire crimp loose.
I pulled out my logbook and added up the track time. I got 7 hours and 20 minutes out of the last engine which was a new Honda short block and my reconditioned head. The oil was changed from its break in oil after 45 minutes of track time to Royal Purple racing 5w-30.
I got 36 hours from my previous engine which was used. I ran Castrol full synthetic 10w-40 in that engine. I did a compression check on that engine 2 hours before I lost the engine with 254 to 258psi in all cylinders so when it went it went quickly.
I don't think it's a coincidence that Skip and I were the only 2 S2000's to run 1:21 and 1:22 laps at Summit Point and both of us have lost several engines. I don't know what the problem is but I can't afford to keep trying.
My plan is to install a used 2.2L engine and sell the sexy parts separate like the Puddymod 4.44 OS Giken differential, brand freakin' new RacingBrake front big brake kit, all 10 CE28 wheels with NT01s, a set of RPF1 17x9 +45 with R888 (rain) tires and revalved KW V3s then reinstall the stock parts.
I'm considering a street legal SSM Miata race car or maybe building a Factory Five 818.
06-27-2013, 07:41 PM
#3
I know it feels like time to chuck it all, but from a guy who has lost quite a few motors...
Take a couple days. Drink a beer or two, and let it settle in before making a decision.
It can be frustrating, but when all is said and done it's still a pretty cost effective chassis : fun ratio.
Maybe the solution is in the cooling and oil? Maybe one of the new Canton oil pans would solve the problem? Or an accusump?
You may be just a single mod away from relative durability.
Rebuilds after 60-80 hours are common in a lot of race series....
Take a couple days. Drink a beer or two, and let it settle in before making a decision.
It can be frustrating, but when all is said and done it's still a pretty cost effective chassis : fun ratio.
Maybe the solution is in the cooling and oil? Maybe one of the new Canton oil pans would solve the problem? Or an accusump?
You may be just a single mod away from relative durability.
Rebuilds after 60-80 hours are common in a lot of race series....
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06-27-2013, 08:39 PM
#8
Registered User
I have lost 3 motors this season alone..... I am rebuilding again with all the coolers you recommend on your site plus an accusump. I am supercharged and getting faster on r comps, so I think it is all oil starvation plus buying cheap used motors.... Please don't give up on the S. You are an inspiration and your website has built numerous race cars.
06-27-2013, 09:13 PM
#9
I know i PMed you about a part I was interested, but seriously, i'll echo everyone else in here. You really should keep the car. Your website has been such a huge asset and wealth of knowledge as far as many of the DIY things and mods in general.
It would be a shame to see you go.
I plan on my motor blowing up eventually, hopefully much later rather than sooner (in hopes of me being in a better place financially).
My plan is to do a k20/24 swap when that time comes - yeah, it'll be close to double the expense, but once all the kinks are iron out, k20s and k24s can be had for much much cheaper and more reliably than f20/22s.
It would be a shame to see you go.
I plan on my motor blowing up eventually, hopefully much later rather than sooner (in hopes of me being in a better place financially).
My plan is to do a k20/24 swap when that time comes - yeah, it'll be close to double the expense, but once all the kinks are iron out, k20s and k24s can be had for much much cheaper and more reliably than f20/22s.
