I was at TWS Thanksgiving weekend running enjoyable and pretty consistent laps, just trying to maintain focus and not break any records (I am sure I didn't ). I did regularly notice a noise in #3 which is a fairly fast right taken in third. Sounded like a tire grinding or maybe a fast skip.

I made minor adjustments to the shocks with no difference and finally decided to just live with it since I did not hear it anywhere else. The little experimenting I have done leads me to believe it is loss of traction on the inside rear but I don't know what to do about it.

Confirmation? Anyone care to share a proven technique to minimize the problem.

 

Try a bigger front bar and/or unwinding the wheel a little bit when it happens to plant the inside tire.

Having said that, if it's not causing you any problems, then I'm not sure you should worry about it. I've had this problem autocrossing, but it was more of an issue for me since it would happen while I was trying to power out of corners. Since a Torsen acts as an open diff when one wheel is in the air, I wasn't able to put any power to the ground until the tire touched down again.

Steve

 

Oh god the story of my life with this car. Next time you drive the track. Plant your foot firmly to the firewall and see if your revs jump with out the car accelerating or oversteering. My car will pull the wheel enough to on occasion leave inside wheel smoke. With a Passanger in the right seat it cuts down on it drastically. But it's something I never experienced on stock shocks. With the Koni's all it wants to do is pick up a rear wheel. But believe it or not I've actually found it might be faster in some cases. For instance exiting a corner that would normally be out of vtec I can punch it mid corner and at the sacrafice of the inside rear tires spin at almost redline in 2nd then as the wheel touches down it's like launching the car vs rolling off the line. If you see what I mean.

Here are 2 video's same course Demostrating what I'm talking about.
The course has 2 really tight Right handers. Every car was going to 1st for this corner. I set Pax ftd and never worried about 1st gear. Who says S2000's don't have torque. Ok anyway
1st video I'm on cold tires but There is no passanger so Listen on the 2 really tight rights it will rev then catch.
http://www.fastjam.com/autox/ian1.wmv
2nd Video. On this one I have a passanger and I'm trying to give him a Demo run and attempt to not drive like an Idiot so No inside wheel spin, Listen for the Difference.
http://www.fastjam.com/autox/ian.wmv

Ian

 

I run the large Mugen bar and really didn't think I wanted more as it does bias towards push when on street tires.

The two things that were different were; I removed the spare for the first time so there was 20 or so pounds less over that wheel. And the rear shocks (JIC's) may have been set a bit softer than in the past. On the track I use full stiff up front but thought I like more compliance in the rear.

I am open to other suggestions. I will try the things mentioned above.

BTW, I cannot get to the fastjam pages..

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
I was at TWS Thanksgiving weekend running enjoyable and pretty consistent laps, just trying to maintain focus and not break any records (I am sure I didn't ). I did regularly notice a noise in #3 which is a fairly fast right taken in third. Sounded like a tire grinding or maybe a fast skip.

 

welcome to my hell.

You can mitigate it some by increasing front compression dampening and decreasing rear rebound. Are your JICS multiway adjustable?

You can also play with spring rates too.

02 rear sway bar can help some too.

 

Something to keep in mind is that letting a wheel spin and then slamming it back down is the easiest way to break a worm gear type differential. I broke a stock Integra Type-R differential this way at Thill and boy, was my friend pissed at me. I came over the cyclone, got the inside wheel loose, and stayed in the gas as it came down and heard BANG. And the car when revvvv CLUNK revvvv CLUNK whenever you turned the wheel.

 

Yup. I killed my diff during OTC much the same way. You need to be very cognizant of whether or not that inside wheel is spinning.

 

krazik mentionned:

Are there any generalizations that can be applied to the approach to spring rates? I'm thinking about changing springs and would appreciate advice from people with experience. For example, what would one want to do for a street car used for regular weekend track events:

a) increase springs proportionally(keeping the same f/r bias) all around;
b) equalize f & r spring rates;
c) equalize and increase f & r spring rates;
d) increase the front spring rate relative to the rear (front biased rates);
e) front biased & increased spring rates.


Thanks for your help,

Guy

 

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