This past event I had too much inside wheel spin. I added stiffer diff mounts and had my caster over 7. Usually Im at 6 degrees and stock mounts.
Ive never experienced this before where on tight right hand turns, my car would just bounce off the rev limiter. Before I though it was engine related but after last event its for sure wheel lift.

I tried to read up and RCAs came up as a solution but to only install on the fronts. Anyone have real life feed back? Front and rear RCAs help? Is a diff my only option?

Car uses SRCs on stock sways and is used for TA.

 

I was on old not so sticky RE71rs too if that matters.

 

Disclaimer: not an expert and less experience on this board than many others.

I suspect inside rear spin while on non-staggered setup with similar weight F/R springs can come from inadequate front roll stiffness coupled with "too much" rear roll stiffness, too low/inadequate droop and lastly worn OEM LSD.

Therefore - like many others on here you can add a bigger front anti-roll bar, smaller rear anti-roll bar.

 

^^ Yep, sway bar tuning would be my first thing to address. The direction you want to go is stiffer up front and or softer in the rear, and make sure your coilovers are offering an appropriate amount of wheel droop to keep the tire in contact when the suspension on the apposing side is compressed. But that would only be secondary to a proper sway bar weight/bias to keep body roll/inside wheel lift at bay.

 

I have a big front bar and a smaller than stock rear bar (Karcepts)... I never get lift.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I really dislike stiffer front bars as I want over steer and not under. Ive never had this issue before this bad and the only thing I changed was more caster and stiffer diff mounts.
I guess the mounts made my problem much worse. Ill have to look into sways as Im not opposed to it....just past front bars Ive used the car pushed too much.

So RCAs will do nothing for this issue? Everyone is saying bigger front bar and years ago Rob was saying front RCAs but never got to test his change.

 

If you are strongly adverse to the typical approach of using different sway bars there are still other options, however you may have to be a pioneer. Theoretically, RCA would reduce roll, limit load on the outside front and therefore keep more load on the inside rear. Another option could be running spacers on the rear wheels changing the lever arm geometry and motion ratio keeping the wheel down.

Lastly, adding caster could possibly the straw that broke the camel's back - as you are now loading the front outside more than before.

 

If you have some leeway to play with yet on your rear wheel fitment, id second the idea of widening the rear track width via spacers to help mitigate the issue.

 

Front RCA will definitely add front roll stiffness but not exactly in the same way that a stiffer sway bar will but could definitely work. Quite a few variables between cars but I have front and rear RCA (J's S1 with 9mm in front and 12mm in rear, with relatively soft ASM sway bars) and I can't say I experienced inside wheel spin/lift when I was on the stock diff.

Is it limited to tight right hand corners or is that just the particular track you were on? Maybe get to a skidpad and test both right and left? Are you lighting up the inside rear for sure?

Might be able to adjust pre-load to increase rebound travel on the rear dampers?

 

I have the same issue as you and I have:

AP2
Full Cage
Tein Driving SpecControl Master Type Flex Coilovers (lol)
Whiteline front Sway,
Stock rear sway,
BuddyClub RCA front
Spoon Rigid colar kit Front & rear

Hasport 88A Engine & Diff Mounts
Hoosier R6/7 squared setup

My next steps are:
1. Getting a much better coilover setup with much stiffer springs
2. Corner weight the car
3. Wider tires

My guess is that my springs/shocks are too soft and the front end dips, thus kicking up the rear. Corner balancing the car would help quite a bit as well.