Ok, I'm PROBABLY ordering my JRZ's tomorrow morning, but I'm looking for advice on one last detail...

I'll be ordering with 750 lb front, 700 lb rear springs and will be using stock sway bars front and rear. They're specifying valving to accommodate springs from 700-1200 lbs (for when I turn it into a trailer queen sometime in the future).

I've noticed Rylan and Richard's suspensions have A LOT of droop with the car jacked up. I can't really think of many disadvantages to this except that it makes for a bit extra work when jacking up the car to work on it. But that's actually a nuisance I'd like to minimize at this point since it won't cost anything to put droop limiting tubes in there at this point.

I can think of two advantages to droop: to help prevent lifting wheels in turns and to maintain traction when the suspension unloads drastically. For lifting wheels, I'm not running slicks like Rylan, so I'm not expecting to have as much as an issue here. Also, I'm using a Kaaz LSD, so wheel lift isn't quite as much of an issue. And lastly, my approach to stopping wheel lift would differ from how Ry and Dave handled it. Rather than disconnecting the rear sway bar and running stiffer rear springs, I would leave the sway bar and run stiffer front springs to keep the weight from shoving forward so hard. As for suspension unloading, Ry and Richard probably have 5-7 inches of droop. I think 4 inches would be plenty for this purpose.

Right now, I'm planning on using 1.5" droop limiters. I think that will still leave more than enough droop for my setup. In fact, I question if I should even go higher.

Thoughts? Comments?

 

Ry and I and twohoos have a lot of droop because we don't have a rear swaybar to prevent this. With the swaybar, droop will be a lot less. One potential minor issue with droop is if you don't have helper springs to keep the main springs from going off-center and binding when you lower the car. Not a real problem but makes a good "bang" when it re-centers (ask twohoos). Other than that and the extra jacking, I see no disadvantage either, just advantages.

Is your valving actually going to be different from standard? I haven't changed the valving on mine even with the stiffer springs (750).

And what's a droop limiter?

 

I'm not sure i would use a droop limiter, its just one more thing to buy/break /replace/repair. But, i would definetly make sure to get helper springs.

 

if you are using 8" springs then helpers are a big plus. I can't see droop as an issue I'd put the 750's on the rear and 700's in front. Lose the rear sway bar and use the stock one in the front.

 

 

For the record and IMHO 700#+ springs are nasty on the street.

 

Until I get wider front tires or narrower rear tires (now 235 F/275 R), or more camber in front, I am running 650 lb front/750 lb rear with both OEM front and rear swaybars. Without the rear bar it pushes a lot. But I haven't tried the current setup on the track as yet.
On the street I must slow for dips or bumps.

 

Amen brotha. All the comfort of riding in a supermarket shopping cart.

 

I already have 670# springs, so I know what I'm in for on the spring rates.

I know you CAN use stiffer rear springs and disconnect the rear bar, but I will be approaching the same problem (curing wheel lift and balancing the car) from the other direction by keeping the rear bar and running slightly stiffer front springs (I will need to go to higher rates with slicks). I know your way works, but my way should also work and with much less body roll.

I do intend to use helper springs.

Does anyone know in inches how much total droop you get with the car jacked up on JRZ's (from a starting point of the car at rest, lowered about 1.5~2.0 inches from stock ride height)? That will help me determine exactly how much (if any) I want to limit it.

 

You CAN experiment however it's been tried already and doesn't work.