Are there downsides to any of the lightweight batteries, other than cost?

I've done a search, and not really found anything definitive, but I apologize if this has been answered before.

In short, my car is a daily driver used for autocross and an occasional track day. So the battery must start the car down to about 35 degrees (that's as cold as it gets in my garage during the winter).

Is that beyond the capability of one of these 15 pound batteries?

What can I expect as far as lifetime?

I've seen Hawker, Optima, and Dyna-Batt mentioned. What is the best?

Thanks in advance!

 

Mine doesn't hold much of a charge. If you leave the key in the ignition in the "on" position for 30 minutes or so, you won't be able to start the car.

Also, something in my elect system seems to always drain down my battery. If I leave the car parked for over a week or two without driving it, the battery will be dead.

Using an Odyssey PC680.

 

You must have an electrical problem which would be a problem no matter the battery you'd use.

I currently have the Braille battery but have used the Hawker in other cars. The only downside I have seen is that if you are running a stereo with the car off, it will only run about 4 hours.

Recharging must also be done on the 2 amp mode, not the 10 amp or you will burn it up, or so I am told. The couple of times I needed to recharge I used the 2 amp mode and after a few minutes it started right up with no apparent downsides.

I have never had to replace one of the smaller ones. They have lasted over 3 years and by that time I have had a different car

 

So, what do you think explains the lack of charge:
*Battery?
*Fault with Honda electrical system?
*Fault and/or drain from non-standard components?
*Something else?

 

I don't think it's the battery. I think the battery just becomes symptomatic faster.

It must be a fault in the electrical system. The only non-oem electronic piece I have is my stereo head unit (a Kenwood Z919). Whether that's causing it or something wrong in the oem electrical system, I dunno. It's worse after driving on the track and I suspect part of the power loss I experience while out on the track for a session is linked to this. My car seems to lose power while I'm lapping and the car generally has a hard time turning the engine over at start of each session.

 

Reverend...your car has something else with it...check for shorts and other issues.

I'm running the Hawker Odessey PC680 as well...personally I have had no problems with it. AND it is starting a car running on an AEM EMS (so basically it has a harder time starting).

I've started the S2k with the EMS in as low as 5 degrees F.

I've had the battery for a year, it has given me no problems...any starting problems I've had with starting are from the EMS.

 

I know my way around the mechanicals of the car very very well. But I have to admit electrical systems are not my forte. Any suggestions?

 

Bought an Odyssey 680 3yrs ago. My first mod. Battery still works as good as day 1.

Rev, there's definitely something draining your bat. I think we both use the same make/model. I can leave the car alone for a month and it will turn over no problem.

Anyone tried relocating these tiny bats inside the cabin or the trunk? I see no issues with hazardous fumes or cold starts to worry about since it's a dry cell.

 

First I'd start by just checking to see how much current is flowing while the car is off (I learned how to do this at one time, but have since forgotten). Once you know how much power is being drained, then I'd put your stock headunit back in (if you have it) just to check and see how much current is drained when using the stock unit (first put in your code and make sure everything on it is working just as the aftermarket one is). I don't think that is the problem, but it is possible that it is. After you've checked that...well, there is a lot left to check, and I really wouldn't know where to start but I'm sure others will have ideas.

Also, I have left my stereo on for a period of 3 hours and was able to start the car just fine afterwards...and that was playing at a hefty volume. I do however have a problem after leaving the car sitting for a period of days. About 1 week of sitting and the car is resistant to starting, 2 weeks it may or may not...3 weeks, it probably isn't going to have enough power to start and I'll need cables. However, I could see my Alpine HU combined with the EMS making the car more like this...especially since the EMS is VERY finicky with voltage.

 

Argh. I just thought to look in the SCCA Solo Rulebook and saw this for Stock categories:

"...replacement parts (e.g., ... batteries..., etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight, material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit."