I just ran an event at Summit Point this weekend on the Jefferson Circuit (http://www.summitpoint-raceway.com/JC.HTM). It is 1.1 miles long and run CCW. The car ran very well and in the intermediate group I passed all of the cars out there in a 30 minute session (Miatas, RX-7s, M3s, MR2s).

This is the second short track I have run where my rotors were blue and I feel like I am on the verge of making something bad happen with my braking system. I am running OEM rotors, no heat shields in the front, Goodridge lines, ATE Super Blue and Carbotech XPs front/Carbotech P+ rear.

The brakes didn't fade when I was on the track and there are no signs of cracking on the rotors.

My buddy (that races Honda Challenge) took the car out for the final session with a mixed group of advanced/intermediate drivers. He was passing everybody out there and came in early because he said there were no brakes left. He said the pads can't handle the speed and that he likely boiled the fluid. His recommendation is to go to Hawk Blues up front and swap over to Motul fluid. Does this seem like the next logical step? He is going to be driving the car on the Summit Point main circuit in the beginning of July and I need to make sure the car can handle what he throws at it.

Also, for my own edification, what is the hot tire pressure I should be looking for? The Victoracers went on to the track at 32 PSI front and 29 PSI rear and came off about 11 pounds higher all the way around. He said we'll have to start a bit lower because that was pretty high. The Victoracers have a couple more sessions in them and then I will be running Hoosiers - should I target the same pressures with them?

TIA
-YS

 

The pressures that you are running look like typical targets for autocrossing, since you want them to heat up quickly, but seem low for road racing. Do your Kumhos get greasy toward the end of the session? If they do, then you shoud raise your pressure a bit. Lowering the pressure will cause them to run even hotter.

Have you been following any of the brake threads here in Racing and Competition? DavePK has been treading new ground in this area.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]The pressures that you are running look like typical targets for autocrossing, since you want them to heat up quickly, but seem low for road racing.

 

with stock wheels on non-slicks the stock brakes are just fine. I don't think you need to change the caliper or rotors. Check out more agressive compounds. I've had good success w/ the pagids and cobalt has some race pads that look nice (haven't used them yet).

If you plan to street your car at all don't run the Hawk Blues. They eat your rotors signicifantly when cold. They're fine to the rotors if you keep them hot tho. For OTC I ran Pagid Yellows in front and Hawk Blues in the Back.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
[B]with stock wheels on non-slicks the stock brakes are just fine.

 

if your rears are getting hot enuf to boil you have cooked your front pads so much that they aren't doing nearly their share of the braking and your rears are trying to take up the slack.

Run something more agressive in front. I've been running ATE lately, including fir OTC (was given 3 1L cans) and it works pretty well. The motul is a bit better, but try better pads and the fluid will be fine. Also when the pads wear down they xfer more head into the caliper causing boiling. When they are "full tread" it's much harder to boil.

-Ry

 

Those hot pressures sound high to me. I usually ran my Victoracers around 37 hot. And I had the same target when running Hoosiers. My slicks on the other hand require 30#s when hot no more no less.

I would highly recommend you get some brake ducting worked out for the fronts before your buddy destroys the rears. If you haven't yet done it you should also remove the shield from the rear brakes as well. And, when you do that take a close look at the rear pads, I bet the inside rear pads are shot. That tends to happen when ever you cook the fronts.

Make sure you take spare pads and rotors and plenty of Motul brake fluid to your weekend event.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by davepk
[B]Those hot pressures sound high to me. I usually ran my Victoracers around 37 hot. And I had the same target when running Hoosiers. My slicks on the other hand require 30#s when hot no more no less.

I would highly recommend you get some brake ducting worked out for the fronts before your buddy destroys the rears. If you haven't yet done it you should also remove the shield from the rear brakes as well. And, when you do that take a close look at the rear pads, I bet the inside rear pads are shot. That tends to happen when ever you cook the fronts.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Yellow Streak
[B]
1. I haven't removed the heat shields from the rear, but we will tomorrow.

 

The 37 was a starting point for me. From there I would make adjustments to help dial in the balance I was looking for. At the end of the day when the tires are cool take a reading of their cold pressure. That will serve as a guide for future events on where to start your tire pressures from.

Oh, and that was Stainless Steal safety wire around the header tape. Zip ties like the adhesive will melt.

A new set of rotors for the event is good but bring a spare set of rotors as well as a spare set of pads.

I like your camber #'s. The rears will absolutely love it. Keep an eye on the fronts for inside edge tire wear. Consider flipping the fronts (inside to outside) if the inside wear is considerably more than the outside.