Massive Issues with Rear Brakes
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3 days for 50% wear is not that bad. Sounds like you then messed up the rotor and then kept using it also without bedding the new pad. Maybe get new rotor and pads and bed them and maybe you are ok.
I have destroyed street pads completely in 1/2 a day they can't hang. Get some ducts too.
I have destroyed street pads completely in 1/2 a day they can't hang. Get some ducts too.
How long are rear race pads normally lasting for on the s2000's?
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Ohio
[/quote]
From taking to other drivers, they were saying that they run cheap low mu pads on the rear that can last them the entire season...
How long are rear race pads normally lasting for on the s2000's?
[/quote]
Most run rear pads that are less aggressive than the front. I use Cobalt, XR2 front XR4 rear. If you're using Carbotech, I think the popular method is to use 12/10, or something 2 numbers less on rear.
Anyway, I certainly wear thru multiple sets of front pads before changing the rears. The last time i changed the rears, i think i had gone thru 3 sets of fronts. Further, at that time the rears didnt absolutely have to be changed, but i was going to a higher speed track, and i didnt want to mess with them at the track if they wore out. I believe my scenario is typical.
Weather you can go a whole season without changing rears, is probably dependent on how many total track days you do, the types of tracks you visit, etc. however 50% wear after 3 days is not normal
From taking to other drivers, they were saying that they run cheap low mu pads on the rear that can last them the entire season...
How long are rear race pads normally lasting for on the s2000's?
[/quote]
Most run rear pads that are less aggressive than the front. I use Cobalt, XR2 front XR4 rear. If you're using Carbotech, I think the popular method is to use 12/10, or something 2 numbers less on rear.
Anyway, I certainly wear thru multiple sets of front pads before changing the rears. The last time i changed the rears, i think i had gone thru 3 sets of fronts. Further, at that time the rears didnt absolutely have to be changed, but i was going to a higher speed track, and i didnt want to mess with them at the track if they wore out. I believe my scenario is typical.
Weather you can go a whole season without changing rears, is probably dependent on how many total track days you do, the types of tracks you visit, etc. however 50% wear after 3 days is not normal
Joined: Apr 2012
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If you are getting a whole season out of some street pads in the rear, you are probably leaving a lot of time on the table.
I was at 3 or 4 days on DTC60/HT10 combo before ducts. And about 6 after ducts, which I am happy with.
Track type will make a big difference too.
I was at 3 or 4 days on DTC60/HT10 combo before ducts. And about 6 after ducts, which I am happy with.
Track type will make a big difference too.
Joined: Feb 2010
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Sucks to have this be my first post but I just recently ran into an issue with my car where the rear calipers are destroying the brake pads.
To make a long story short, my car has gone through three sets pads in the past two days.
Carbotech XP8:
I noticed even but accelerated wear on the xp10's I had originally on the car but 50% of the pad was worn through within 3 trackdays
Street Pad:
Since I only noticed the xp8's were gone the night before the BW event this past Sunday I decided to run street pads on the rears since I thought the rear wouldn't see enough heat melt them over just one event. After 5 laps on my first session I heard a grind coming from the rear driver side and pulled off track. Both rears, which were previously like new, were shot. The driver side was down to metal inside and outside while the passenger side was both at about 15%. I've spoken to other track regulars who said that they ran street pads as well but this never happened to them either.
Porterfield R4:
Assuming that it was my fault for believing the street pad would hold up on track I found a fellow s2ki member (Jonathan dont know his s2ki handle but thanks!
) who was nice enough for sell me a new set of R4. After coming off the second session, I checked the rears and to my disbelief, the driver side pad was down to the metal backing again but the passenger side was still intact. I didn't bed in the R4 before I went on track thinking that it would bed itself in 
. (Additionally the driver side rear rotor was pretty scored from making contact with the backing from the street pad. Could this have contributed? )
Has anybody experienced an issue like this before?
My best guess was that the rear caliper may be stuck or some kind of brake balancing/proportioning issue.
Any help would be great thanks!
Might be relevent/might not:
Stock Brake Lines
XP10 Fronts
255 sq z2 tires
Since this is a new to me car it seems like the gas mileage has been lower that it should
maybe due to pad drag?
To make a long story short, my car has gone through three sets pads in the past two days.
Carbotech XP8:
I noticed even but accelerated wear on the xp10's I had originally on the car but 50% of the pad was worn through within 3 trackdays
Street Pad:
Since I only noticed the xp8's were gone the night before the BW event this past Sunday I decided to run street pads on the rears since I thought the rear wouldn't see enough heat melt them over just one event. After 5 laps on my first session I heard a grind coming from the rear driver side and pulled off track. Both rears, which were previously like new, were shot. The driver side was down to metal inside and outside while the passenger side was both at about 15%. I've spoken to other track regulars who said that they ran street pads as well but this never happened to them either.
Porterfield R4:
Assuming that it was my fault for believing the street pad would hold up on track I found a fellow s2ki member (Jonathan dont know his s2ki handle but thanks!
) who was nice enough for sell me a new set of R4. After coming off the second session, I checked the rears and to my disbelief, the driver side pad was down to the metal backing again but the passenger side was still intact. I didn't bed in the R4 before I went on track thinking that it would bed itself in . (Additionally the driver side rear rotor was pretty scored from making contact with the backing from the street pad. Could this have contributed? )Has anybody experienced an issue like this before?
My best guess was that the rear caliper may be stuck or some kind of brake balancing/proportioning issue.
Any help would be great thanks!
Might be relevent/might not:
Stock Brake Lines
XP10 Fronts
255 sq z2 tires
Since this is a new to me car it seems like the gas mileage has been lower that it should
maybe due to pad drag?
Former Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,729
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This is why I really discourage people from posting "you'll be fine with OEM pads for your first track day" on this site.
They are only okay if you drive really, really slowly and don't have the speed to use brakes.
If you heat them up, they disintegrate very quickly.
Brake pads are a little unpredictable in wear, especially if there isn't enough cooling.
I've had race pads on some cars that only last one day club racing.
Others have lasted 8 races on different car positions.
But for an S2000 with OEM calipers, pad sizes and no ducting, I do NOT think street or "mild" track pads will hold up to anything but the slowest drivers.
I would say XP10 is minimum front for even a street tire setup.
I'd probably say XP12 / 10 for street tires.
The XP8 really only has a 1350 degree ceiling. XP12 gets into the 2000 range.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp
They are only okay if you drive really, really slowly and don't have the speed to use brakes.
If you heat them up, they disintegrate very quickly.
Brake pads are a little unpredictable in wear, especially if there isn't enough cooling.
I've had race pads on some cars that only last one day club racing.
Others have lasted 8 races on different car positions.
But for an S2000 with OEM calipers, pad sizes and no ducting, I do NOT think street or "mild" track pads will hold up to anything but the slowest drivers.
I would say XP10 is minimum front for even a street tire setup.
I'd probably say XP12 / 10 for street tires.
The XP8 really only has a 1350 degree ceiling. XP12 gets into the 2000 range.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp
Former Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,729
Likes: 8
Another tip that kind of is a "no duh" but might not be intuitive right away.
WHEN A PAD IS HALF WORN, THE SECOND HALF OF THE PAD WEARS A LOT QUICKER.
So if it took 4 sessions to wear down half, it might take 2-3 to wear down the other half.
Replace them before they get near the backing plate or else you'll toast your rotors.
Sometimes it's hard to check pad thickness with the wheels on (especially if the pads get more than half worn).
You can use your camera phone to get a better angle, but pulling a wheel in between sessions to check rate of wear is a good idea until you get an idea of how quickly you're wearing.
Tip: If you see your rotor getting even a little grooved, CHECK YOUR PADS… it's a decent indication you're getting low. Once you've grooved a rotor, it will chew up the next pad quicker.
I generally will put on a fresh set of rotors and pads before an important day as time can get short in between sessions and I don't want to scramble. I don't start pads with less than 3/4 thickness.
I will carry a spare set of rotors and pads for each day I plan on competing / driving. But I'm paranoid like that.
I do wind up with a lot of half-used pads, but I figure if a track day costs a few hundred and I have the choice of either missing 25-50% of the drive time or paying 25-50% more for "wasted brakes," it comes out as a wash either way.
WHEN A PAD IS HALF WORN, THE SECOND HALF OF THE PAD WEARS A LOT QUICKER.
So if it took 4 sessions to wear down half, it might take 2-3 to wear down the other half.
Replace them before they get near the backing plate or else you'll toast your rotors.
Sometimes it's hard to check pad thickness with the wheels on (especially if the pads get more than half worn).
You can use your camera phone to get a better angle, but pulling a wheel in between sessions to check rate of wear is a good idea until you get an idea of how quickly you're wearing.
Tip: If you see your rotor getting even a little grooved, CHECK YOUR PADS… it's a decent indication you're getting low. Once you've grooved a rotor, it will chew up the next pad quicker.
I generally will put on a fresh set of rotors and pads before an important day as time can get short in between sessions and I don't want to scramble. I don't start pads with less than 3/4 thickness.
I will carry a spare set of rotors and pads for each day I plan on competing / driving. But I'm paranoid like that.
I do wind up with a lot of half-used pads, but I figure if a track day costs a few hundred and I have the choice of either missing 25-50% of the drive time or paying 25-50% more for "wasted brakes," it comes out as a wash either way.
Joined: Mar 2010
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Good info Ckit, thanks. Makes sense that the last half of brake pads wear down quicker. I also agree that it's worth at least getting a half decent set of pads (like HP+) for your first track event. I'm glad I did because I doubt my OEM pads would've held up as well at my first event. Sure some people may putz around for the first couple sessions, but if/when you start pushing the car, I always prefer having more braking than less.
Sorry to go OT, but what's your opinion of staggered vs. non-staggered brake pads. It makes sense to go with staggered pads like XP10/XP8 f/r if the car has non-staggered tires, but if you're on the OEM stagger, it seems like the same f/r would make sense. I'm still on stock stagger and was thinking of doing XP8/XP8 f/r just because it seems like the XP8's are a little easier on rotors than XP10's..
Sorry to go OT, but what's your opinion of staggered vs. non-staggered brake pads. It makes sense to go with staggered pads like XP10/XP8 f/r if the car has non-staggered tires, but if you're on the OEM stagger, it seems like the same f/r would make sense. I'm still on stock stagger and was thinking of doing XP8/XP8 f/r just because it seems like the XP8's are a little easier on rotors than XP10's..
Former Moderator
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My feeling is that rotors are cheaper than pads so I'd rather go more heat resistance and change rotors rather than toast pads way early to save rotor.
Staggering really depends on spring rate, pad size front to rear and weight distribution. For most street cars with more tire grip up front than designed originally from the factory can use a more aggressive front pad stagger.
Add to that an S2000 is designed with rear brake bias for safety and I still like a front to rear pad compound stagger. Add more tire width up front and I really want more pad up front.
Staggering really depends on spring rate, pad size front to rear and weight distribution. For most street cars with more tire grip up front than designed originally from the factory can use a more aggressive front pad stagger.
Add to that an S2000 is designed with rear brake bias for safety and I still like a front to rear pad compound stagger. Add more tire width up front and I really want more pad up front.
Joined: Mar 2010
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Thanks Ckit.. Ya that's something I'm thinking about. I'm relatively easy on brakes and have ducting which is why I was thinking of going w/ XP8's over XP10's (not to mention between events of only a few weeks I might just run them on the street vs. swapping to OEM pads, and XP8's seem to be more streetable). Car is garaged for winter so guess I'll cross that bridge come late winter when I order some. Thanks.
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