Got some new front rotors. Does anyone have a link to instructions for replacing them?

I think I warped the driver's front. I notice a regular pattern of "squeek squeek squeek" when rolling and braking lightly, and uneven braking force and pedal pulsation that matches the squeek interval. This started earlier this year and has gotten worse. I've gone thru 3 sets of stock pads, and have R4S on the car now, 24K miles. I'm very carefull not to use the handbrake at the track. The rotors don't appear to be worn much (not much of a lip at the edge). Is this common?

Thanks

 

1) remove wheel
2) use impact driver (philips) to remove the screws in the rotor. I find this is eaiser if someone can stand on the brakes so the rotor doesn't move, but it's not required. Then again, I only run 1 screw now. They just keep the rotor in place when the wheel is off
3) remove the caliper (2-12mm bolts on the back)
4) remove the caliper braket (2-17mm bolts behind the rotor)
5) pull rotor straight off
6) put new rotor on and reassemble.

 

Thanks Rylan. Gotta go buy me an impact driver.

So you don't need the two bolts to screw in to remove the rotor as explained in the Helm manual?

Also, don't I need to wash the new rotors or something like that?

 

nah, just brake the pads into them by doing a couple easy stops.

Really you don't need either. but with none the rotor will move around when the wheel is off and you are changing pads.

I just run 1 on the front rotors so that the rotor stays in place and I don't have to worry about it when changing my pads.

I don't have any on my rears. But I would recomend atleast using 1. They're a bitch to get out so having less makes the change a lot eaiser in the future.

The screw is not a load bearing peice.

 

They come off really easy with an impact driver. A couple of good hits with a heavy hammer and they are loose. No reason not to put them back in. Just use a heavy hammer not one of those stupid ones. If doesn't weight 3 lbs, it aint a hammer.

 

Thanks guys, but I was talking about the two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts they recommend to screw into the "other" holes in the rotor to back the rotor off hub. This is shown in the Helm manual, page 18-12.

 

If it is the first time you are replacing the rotors, use a mini-sledge hammer, not a regular hammer.
You will pull your ffing hair out trying to get it off with a standard use hammer.

-Doug

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SoCal Craig
[B]Thanks guys, but I was talking about the two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts they recommend to screw into the "other" holes in the rotor to back the rotor off hub.

 

I didn't have a heavy enough hammer when I finally tried to replace my front rotors after 36000 miles and >10 track days.

 

Doesn't beating on these screws with a BIG hammer, run the risk of damage to the wheel bearing?

I just simply drilled mine off (ground them flush), and never worried about it again. Can the rotor call off with the caliper bracket still in place? You don't take off the caliper mount to change pads, so even with "no scews", it seems to work out ok for me.

I was more worried about wheel bearing damage from "impact" than not having screws. I would like to have at least one screw in each, but since I ground them off it is practically impossible to get them out now.