You probably just need to bleed the coolant using the Billman method. If you search the forum it is quoted pretty often. Basically fill the cooling system and close the radiator cap. Start the car with the heat on full/high and let it idle until it reaches three bars. Run for an additional ten seconds or so. Turn the car off and bleed the front bleeder until coolant comes out steady stream. Close. Repeat until you have lava hot air coming from the heater vent and until you aren't getting any more air bubbles from the bleeder screw.

Other common problems with cooling systems:

Too much ethylene glycol/not enough water. At a minimum 50% water, but more water is better for cooling. When my car saw street duty, I ran 70% distilled water/30% Honda coolant. I run 100% water with Motul Mocool now. ALWAYS USE DISTILLED WATER! Never use tap water.

Radiator is not ducted well.

Ducting is critical. Airflow through the radiator is what makes magic happen. Air, like everything else including most people, follows the path of least resistance. Use anything you can find to block these little paths off. I use foam rubber from a crafts store as it is cheap and quick rather than cutting a bunch of metal plates. The S2000 is ducted pretty well from the factory if you still have all the plastic panels in place.

Radiator cap is not operational. Squeeze the top coolant hose after the car has been running. It should be pressurized. If it feels like there is zero pressure in the hose, replace the cap.

 

the problem is, the car over heats only when i turn the AC on. I think it's because my condenser is probably clogged up since it looks like the original one and the car has 164k on it. So here's what I'm going to do. Clean the condenser out from behind with a pressure washer/ hose/ compressed air, whatever. That alone will probably fix my issue. But for good measure, I'm going to drop like 1200 on that ians dual core w/ oil cooler since I plan on heavily tracking the car with 423whp and rather be safe with a cool engine than blow up because of a cheapo radiator.

 

Ian's radiator is f@#king awesome, you won't be disappointed. If I were boosted it would be the 2nd thing I buy after an oil cooler.

 

Yeah..I have Ians rad too and my 1st track with it, It never went over 194. I have 2.4 stroker with 13:1 comp. 2.2 with stock rad saw ~208 the same day. temp was about 75-80ish.

City driving the car see higher temps.

 

I had someone Contact me over the weekend with a tight schedule for a radiator. Is your name Jason by any chance?

 

Same here.
I've got Ian's radiator with a 19 row(?) Sebtrab cooler and I see virtually the same temps. Only time it water temps hit 200f and oil 245f was when I was following a Cayman, as soon as I ducked out into fresh air on the back straight, temps dropped immediately. Huge thumbs up for Ians rad.

 

Yes that was me.

 

I sent you an e-mail back. I'd recommend buying the oil cooler separate and mounting it out in front in the clean air. I'm not a fan of mounting it behind the radiator for track use. I don't think your going to get enough temp delta on the air coming through it to make a large enough difference. For around town and in a cold climate it will work fine. But I think in the heat on the track you want the oil cooler out front. That's where 99% of the other guys with my radiator mount it. That and it's cheaper and gives you more space for larger fans.
Ian

 

Does ur rad/oil cooler/fan kit come with hoses and other parts to complete the oil cooler setup?

 

No, I've only made one that was the cooler behind the radiator. I get a fair amount of requests for it but I usually end up having them go with a cooler mounted in fresh air out front. The one that was built with the cooler behind the rad was built at his request from a motoIQ article where someone did it.