Pss9 recomendations
Originally Posted by summitrider2012
Looking for recomendations on spring rates and sway bar settings for pss9 with gendron 1.25 solid front and 1 solid rear ap2 car with 255 all around on enoki rpf1
If so, those wheels will be a problem.
The offset is wrong. You need something closer to +60mm. As your driving gets more aggressive and you lower the car, the more likely you'll hit the fenders. And with the +45mm offset of the RPF1, it's bound to happen sooner than later.
I used 12k/10k (~676lb/560lb) Swift springs on my Bilsteins and it was good on autox/track and not too rough on the street. There is some good information in this thread regarding the Bilsteins https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/766...gs%22__st__250
I used 12k/10k (~676lb/560lb) Swift springs on my Bilsteins and it was good on autox/track and not too rough on the street. There is some good information in this thread regarding the Bilsteins https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/766...gs%22__st__250
I'll have to read up on that thanks for the link. As far as low goes I love the stance of my car now with the eibachs that lower it 1.5 inches I don't think I'll want any lower in till it's a full track car. My fenders are rolled and I don't have any rubbing issues at the moment with the eibachs I really want the kw v3 but the extra 700 for them is makeing it hard
The Bilsteins can be revalved for any spring combination; other than the stamped steel body the internals are the same as any Bilstein racing shock. IMHO, a revalved Bilstein would be better than a KW although some may disagree.
The adjustment on the PSS9 is generally thought to be near useless. Bilstein does have some adjustable shafts that work, however I don't know if any would work with an S2k (most have spherical bearing eyes on the shaft), they wouldn't be cheap, and may have hood clearance issues. So a straight revalve would be the way to go. Guy Ankeny is famous for his autocross revalves, especially of the Bilstein PSS; Bilstein themselves also do it, about $135/shock I believe.
You can browse the STR threads for recommendations. Generally you will need offset upper boil joints (this is from Karcepts) to get the 3+° negative camber used in front. That also aids in tire clearance. The RPF01 may work with rolled fenders, but generally the PF01 with +60 offset or others (Kosei, TM3) with +60-to-+63 offset are used.
Springs themselves are fairly cheap. People run rates all over the place, but usually about 100-200lb/in (2-4kg/mm) stiffer in front. The most being run on the front seems to be in the 900 lb/in (16kg/mm) range but there are probably cars that are stiffer. The lowest seems to be around 600/450 (roughly 10/8). The anti-roll bars directly play a part in this also. With any spring change you will need to set the perches for ride height and cross weight; both affect handling.
Note that lowering affects the suspension geometry significantly and the jury is out on whether lowering helps or hurts.
The adjustment on the PSS9 is generally thought to be near useless. Bilstein does have some adjustable shafts that work, however I don't know if any would work with an S2k (most have spherical bearing eyes on the shaft), they wouldn't be cheap, and may have hood clearance issues. So a straight revalve would be the way to go. Guy Ankeny is famous for his autocross revalves, especially of the Bilstein PSS; Bilstein themselves also do it, about $135/shock I believe.
You can browse the STR threads for recommendations. Generally you will need offset upper boil joints (this is from Karcepts) to get the 3+° negative camber used in front. That also aids in tire clearance. The RPF01 may work with rolled fenders, but generally the PF01 with +60 offset or others (Kosei, TM3) with +60-to-+63 offset are used.
Springs themselves are fairly cheap. People run rates all over the place, but usually about 100-200lb/in (2-4kg/mm) stiffer in front. The most being run on the front seems to be in the 900 lb/in (16kg/mm) range but there are probably cars that are stiffer. The lowest seems to be around 600/450 (roughly 10/8). The anti-roll bars directly play a part in this also. With any spring change you will need to set the perches for ride height and cross weight; both affect handling.
Note that lowering affects the suspension geometry significantly and the jury is out on whether lowering helps or hurts.
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