Hey all, fairly new to the forum but have been lurking for a few months now. Just picked up my s2k back in Sept and am prepping it for STRRRRR. I'm not that technical when it comes to suspension, I simply love to drive and I tend to go with what works for others and just "tune" a bit here and there to my liking.

I previously had an Acura RSX Type-S prior to the S but I stupidly(lol) co-drove my buddies S on motons one day during an autox event and I completely fell in love with the S2000 and the way the Motons and the overall car felt out on course; his was prepped for STR, it's now a track car. Co-driving his car is one of the reasons I decided if I was going to go this same route (s2k, str and everything that comes with it) then I might as well get me some "baller" DA's to go along with it. So...

I have a JRZ RS PRO complete kit arriving in a couple of days. They have Eibach 8" x 2.25" x 750lbs up front and 6" x 2.25" x 650lbs in the rear. Seems like (from reading the STR Prep thread) that I should have about 850 up front and 750 in the rear. So I was thinking, can I take the front springs and mount them in the rears(even though they are of longer length, 6" to 8") and then purchase a set of 8" x 2.25" x 850lbs springs for the fronts? such as these Eibach 0800.225.0850 The kit includes the helper springs, and yes, I bought the ones that showed up in the R&C For Sale thread sometime last week. These for reference JRZ RS PRO FS thread

OR should I just stick with the 750/650 setup and see if I like the way the car handles as-is and if not take it from there?

off-topic: this was him and I co-driving my car today at our local and awesome AutoX venue here in Metlife Stadium, N.J.
My car is on stock springs/shocks, gendron bar (middle setting), alignment and 255's all around on 949 wheels. Autocross video

Thanks in advance for any guidance and assistance.

 

You could just swap the springs but the 8" spring will require having the spring perch very low on the body. Also the spring will be very close to the upper control arm. I've got 8" springs on my triple adj jrzs but I'm changing them out over the winter for shorter ones for more clearance. I also had that same eibach brand springs on mine and switched them out for hyperco one. Hyperco is the only springs I trust to be the right in/lbs. Other brands can very up to 10% spring to spring.

 

Shorter as in 6" x 2.25" springs all around? Hmmm... the hyperco's are not that much more over the Eibach. I see you're running 900/800 with the gendron bar and the Miata bar....how do you like that setup?

Thanks!

 

I'm actually on 900f/700r and seem to like it but want to try more rear toe and 800r springs. Basicly the same exact set-up as the ap1 that got second place at nationals. Yes 6" springs all the way around. The car is a touch loose right now but running more rear toe will fix that. I'm only running a 1/8 rear toe right now but plan on going to 1/4 once I add alittle spring.

 

Ok, 6" springs all around it is then. I want no clearance issues or any issues for that matter. I basically want to have these installed and not have to deal with them again; only tune compression/rebound...and DRIVE.

Watching your vids now...does seem a bit too loose, at least for my driving preference. I like a "controlled", planted car with a tad bit of oversteer. If that even makes any sense.

Thanks Josh

--Rad

 

By the way, how have you liked your JRZ's?

 

Yup it is. More rear toe would fix that but I have to fix one of the rear eccentrics to get more rear toe. I'm gonna do that over the winter. Good luck with your build!

Edit-

I really like them! Great shocks but I'm still a noob at tuning them. After reading books I've decided to set my rebound to 65% critical and eliminate a knob to turn. 65% critical seems to be ideal anyways. It seems to bounce back fast yet Not overshot. It also doesn't have any issue with jacking down. People like the autocross to win guys says to sit it at 65% and not touch it unless you have the sensors that messure rebound and compression while datalogging it. I think 65% all the way up the range might be alittle rough at highway speeds but my shocks are 65% up to about 4 in/sec then tapper offs like you want it to. As far as compression I'm still playing with that. I like high speed damping but anything past 1/5 on lowspeed the car doesn't seem to have as much grip. 1/5 on lowspeed puts the first 2in/sec close to 60% though. So maybe that's why.

Mine and your shocks arnt the same ones though. I think my pistons are larger. Also my rears need to be cut down because I don't have as much rear travel as I need using my current ride height. I'm not willing to raise the car so cutting the shocks is the plan of action. Hopefully you don't have this issue or you don't want to run as low as me.

 

Keep your current springs and make up the extra spring rate in sway bars. You only need the high spring rates for cornering and sway bars do this.

 

Josh,
The clearance issue's you're having with the 8" springs are they by any chance because of your current, and desired, ride height or is it because of the JRZ's? I see that others are on similar ride height as you (12.25, hub center to metal lip on fender) and are on 8" springs. I do not plan on being too low.

I'm starting to think that I should just keep the setup as-is, run it next season and see how I like/dislike it and then take it from there instead of making changes before even trying it out. I'm already fairly new to the S as it is. I've already got the Gendron 1.25" hollow version.

Thanks!

 

Rad,

Different shocks are different lengths. For example for my shocks the rears only a 5 or 6 inch spring would work. In the front I need about 8" of spring length or more or I can't get to a reasonable ride height. I'm guessing that since your springs are currently the same lengths as mine you'll probably be in a similar situation.

However if the spring is too short you can just go with these: http://www.genesisparts.com/index.cf...action=product. I use those in front so I can have 6" springs all around so I can mix and match.

I would recommend getting the shocks and driving on them for a bit without changing springs. This will do two things - 1) it will tell you where in your shock travel you currently are, thus giving you information on what length springs will work. and 2) it will be perfectly competitive. I'm using 800/700, 750/650 is the same for all intents and purposes, and you saw my PAX results from today .