I live in Ohio. Installed yesterday, 6 degrees outside, windchill -15. My garage isn't heated and it fired right up 10 times in a row. This is certainly extreme and I only suggest it for serious race cars. If you still have a/c or a radio this will not have enough juice, and you shouldn't be too worried about a light battery anyway. My goal is 2200 lb comp weight. Besides if it won't start I can find enough buddies around the paddock to push start it.

 

You will have problem with it. It is just to small, LFX14 is similar what lead battery with 12-14Ah is. It is motorcycle battery.
LFX36 what 2 guys above use is biggest they make and even that one is not for cars but it can work.
There is no warranty for any of them when used in the car. I am dealer and sell a lot of this batteries and use them in my bikes.

 

That'll work for the first time. But then people are going to roll their eyes. Just buy a jump pack.

 

went through two of them. under 50, wont start unless totally topped off. Works fine once the car is warm. Will eat itself alive pretty quick. Also dont leave the key on, even for 5 minutes... it can crank, but has no capacity...
I honestly would think that if you hooked a jump pack on it for every morning start, and disconnected it every night, and never left the key on. It would probably be fine. aka once the car is running hah!
But i was not disciplined enough for that. So back to the deka etx-9. I can get them for 50 dollars and i run two in the winter and one for the summer. First one lasted me from december 2010 till half way through this year when the alternator went bad and killed it. So i am good with low capacity batteries, but the shorai kicked my butt.

 

I was thinking about getting the Ballistic EVO2 16 Cell HD:

http://www.ballisticparts.com/produc...s/16cellHD.php

Do you guys think it will work OK? My car is purely a track car. No AC or radio.

 

Same deal as Shorai, same kind battery and same things apply.

 

I have the Shorai 36aH. I had to leave the car for a couple weeks after starting it briefly to move it and it was dead as a doornail when I finally got a chance to get back to it (11 volts and wouldn't even light the interior light). That said, it seems to have recovered after getting it charged back up with a basic trickle charger. Also, to be fair, I ran into the same issue with the stock battery in that situation.

Even with that big size, the battery is not warrantied for auto use, so I was relieved that it wasn't bricked as it would have been an expensive mistake. The car can still sit for several days without charging and it will be fine. I have also started it on a 28 F morning before a track day and it cranked great (this is even after the incident where it died). Cranked great all day at the track, too. So at least it can take a bit of a beating.

Now I have a 2A Harbor Freight automatic trickle charger that is mounted with the battery with a regular AC plug hanging off (weighs roughly 1 pound). When I park in the garage, I simply pop the hood and plug an extension cord onto it. Keeps it at 14.1 volts and ready for action.

As others mentioned, I think the main thing is capacity. If you aren't going to let it sit and drain for weeks, it will be fine for everything else.

 

When it sits the positive terminal is unhooked, and I don't have any interior lights to worry about.

 

Not sure what charger that is but make sure it is not with desulfation mode. Those are no good on lithium batteries.