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Shock External Reservoir Mounting Suggestions

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Old 09-20-2017, 10:40 AM
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Default Shock External Reservoir Mounting Suggestions

As a follow on from my previous thread about spring rates, I could use some suggestions/advice on how/where to mount external reservoirs for my JRZ RS Pros. I've been creeping on other track guys' setups anytime I guess a chance to peak under the hood of their cars. It seems to me there's a tradeoff between accessibility and permanent modification of the car. I'd like to optimize both of those if possible. To make matters worse, there is no quick disconnect on these shocks, so the entire reservoir needs to pass through whatever barrier exists between the shock mount and wherever the reservoirs will be mounted. This means either finding a space that's 2.25" diameter or using a hole saw to make a one. I know this has been done hundreds and probably thousands of times, so I'd like to get some pictures and some feedback from folks who have seen/installed/used these set ups.

So I have seen the following ways to mount the external reservoirs:

FRONT:
1. On Radiator support beam (I think it's for the radiator...going off of memory).
Pros: Simple and straightforward. Beam has a lower lying area between sides, so canister can be anchored easily even with zip ties.
Cons: Need an aftermarket intake to have access. Heat from engine.

2. On top of plastic undertray, in front of radiator.
Pros: May be able to use existing drain holes to secure canisters. Easy access through bumper grill opening.
Cons: Cannot remove undertray without removing canisters also in future. Not very protected (surrounded by plastic).

3. On sides of hood latch (Looks the cleanest so far, but need to see more pics).
Pros: Easy access and super clean look.
Cons: Tight fit to get correct position for hood to close. Need to drill large hole through plastic shroud or find way to route line around shroud.

REAR:
1. Trunk.
Pros: Easy access and very clean and dry environment.
Cons: Drill large hole in trunk pan or shock tower to feed canister through.

2. Somewhere on bumper support or rear subframe support?
Pros: Proximity to shocks.
Cons: Exposed to dirt/debris. Must remove wheel to adjust.

I also see that the rebound adjuster on the rear driver's side is going to be a huge PITA to access. How have people dealt with this? I know there are remote adjusters available, but they're not cheap. Also, this is a full interior car and will have carpet in the trunk. I have all winter to figure this out, but I'd like to know all my options and the pros and cons of all of them before I choose with method and execute.

I am open to any and all suggestions/advice/criticism. Please drop some knowledge on me! Pics are worth a thousand words, so post them up!

P.S. I will be at the Bear Mountain cruise. And you best believe that I will be checking out setups with external reservoirs! If anyone plans on attending, please let me know and I will be sure to swing by and check your car out in person.

Last edited by Mig233; 09-20-2017 at 10:43 AM.
Old 09-20-2017, 12:06 PM
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Front;
I went with Option 2 for my install. Has been fine even after punting cones in autox, adjustments are not hard.
I plan on going to Option 2 or 3 after getting an aftermarket intake most likely though.

Rear;
Not wanting to cut holes I went with Option 2. You do not need to remove the wheels to access the canisters. Just beware of possible hot exhaust piping

*Pictures stole from Karcepts website because I just followed what he did.

JRZ has an extended adjuster. It is just the red JRZ adjuster knob with a semi flexible hard plastic tube that goes to the top of the shock. Mine was provided to me when I bought my JRZ's. Contact JRZ and I'm sure they'll send one out to you.
I'll take a picture and post later if I remember. I also took out the interior piece that hides that area/spare tires. Road noise shouldn't be an issue, it's a thin interior piece to start with.
Old 09-20-2017, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I spoke to JRZ and they don't stock the adjusters in the USA. I would def like one though.

Def send some pics. I am interested to know about the compartment you're talking about.

I've been studying the karcepts pics also. I'm running the stock exhaust so I'm hoping I don't run into clearance issues.
Old 09-20-2017, 03:47 PM
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Picture of the extension.

The compartment I'm talking about is just the long piece the hides the spare and gas tank fill.
Old 09-20-2017, 04:56 PM
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Damn it's tight over there by the filler neck. Please grab some pics of the canister mounting if you get some time.
Old 09-21-2017, 05:26 PM
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Bump. Please post up suggestions/pics.
Old 09-24-2017, 12:55 PM
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Bump.
Old 09-24-2017, 03:47 PM
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For the front it's pretty easy. Zip tied to the cross beam or drill like 2 holes in the oem air guide and mount them on both sides of the hood latch. No other cutting etc required. Motons, Penke and MCS will all fit there with no problems opening or closing the hood

For the rear everyone seems to mount theirs differently in the trunk. I zip tied mine to the oem rear shock tower bar but I want to figure out a better way eventually
Old 09-27-2017, 09:02 AM
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This is how my JRZ's are mounted:
Facebook Post

Works perfectly and keeps them cool.

Caleb

Last edited by Unbr3akable; 09-27-2017 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Correct link
Old 09-27-2017, 11:28 AM
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Cool video and pretty detailed as well! Question: do you have quick disconnects? I couldn’t really tell, but the fronts seemed to run down along the edge of the air bridge...which would be impossible without quick disconnects. The rear mounting looks simple there, but without fender liners it seems to be in direct path of debris and dirt. Also would be a PITA to adjust compression with a fender liner installed.


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