I have an OEM front bar and I had oem endlinks but I lost them so I put these chunkier shorter (maybe 1" shorter) ones I had laying around on.
I made a few other changes but in general the car felt a bit pushy like it was binding the front a little
Could a shorter stronger endlink effect the car like that?

 

I think a shorter end link may be preloading the bar.

The bar should be parallel with the ground. The shorter end links would cause the bar to start off "angled down"

With the car on the ground the end links and the bar should form a 90 Degree angle.

End links should be connected with the car's full weight on the wheels.

 

Bar pre-load implicitly has a bias. Does it push more when turning one direction than another?

it could be the bar binding but since the S2K front bar is straight, there isnt much to offer this kind of bind.


You mention "some other changes". Can you elaborate on those?

 

other changes I took the splitter off and changed the lower a-arm bushins to poly
the car was much smoother with the poly bushings it didn't change between under/oversteer in a turn it was more consistant mild understeer
this was 3rd and 4th gear corners so i don't think it was the splitter

 

I dunno how much splitter you were running but im willing to bet the splitter is the culprit for the push you're experiencing. How much wing are you running?

My S2K is OEM aero, but on my Lemons car with a 3" splitter I feel a noticeable improvement in front grip from 70mph up. That's right in the meat of 3rd and 4th gear.

If the under-steer is without bias you can probably rule the bar out.

 

I did back the wing out a bit and still felt it was understeery

I'm thinking maybe I've been driving on torn bushings forever and now they are solid I'm picking up the general understeer balance I probably never knew was there because of the bushings moving just realy wanted to check it couldn't be the swaybar and I migth look at springrates again..

I changed the rear toe-in to zero also so I didn't expect it to understeer

 

Endlink length has almost no effect on roll stiffness. It will only change its relative resting position. However because the bar probably moves 5-20* with normal use (both wheels up, or down) this isn't a big deal. A sway bar or anti roll bar only is used when each end tries to move without, or in the opposite direction of, the other end.

You could have some spring bias setup if not adjusted properly, but I don't believe it would result in the described experience.