Suggestions on rear differential mounts
Found out my driver side rear one is busted. Car has 140,000 on the clock all original mounts. This one is leaking but not broken
I am thinking of two options
1. Buy one new one from honda and replace it. 80 bucks
2. Buy a used set of all four and drain them and fill with urethane. 60 for used plus filling. Maybe I can fill my rears after
Only reason I want to buy four is so that I don't have my car on a lift for a week or two. I live in an apartment
Suggestions or maybe another option. I am trying to go the lower dollar route vs buying harder aftermarket ones. I am swaying from oem as look at how much it Flemings in this video
http://youtu.be/gMJJPqdCC2c
[media]http://youtu.be/gMJJPqdCC2c[/media]
I am thinking of two options
1. Buy one new one from honda and replace it. 80 bucks
2. Buy a used set of all four and drain them and fill with urethane. 60 for used plus filling. Maybe I can fill my rears after
Only reason I want to buy four is so that I don't have my car on a lift for a week or two. I live in an apartment
Suggestions or maybe another option. I am trying to go the lower dollar route vs buying harder aftermarket ones. I am swaying from oem as look at how much it Flemings in this video
http://youtu.be/gMJJPqdCC2c
[media]http://youtu.be/gMJJPqdCC2c[/media]
Something to consider is that sometimes all that play and movement is good...
How's that? Longevity of your diff - less shock and load being instantly transferred to more expensive "wear & tear" parts. Our diffs are made of glass and balsa wood. Solid diff collars and stiffer mounts increase the stress placed on the diff. If you're eventually going to upgrade your diff (including the pinion - puddy mod style), not a problem, but it's something to consider and think about if you'd like it to last a little bit longer.
How's that? Longevity of your diff - less shock and load being instantly transferred to more expensive "wear & tear" parts. Our diffs are made of glass and balsa wood. Solid diff collars and stiffer mounts increase the stress placed on the diff. If you're eventually going to upgrade your diff (including the pinion - puddy mod style), not a problem, but it's something to consider and think about if you'd like it to last a little bit longer.
When I had my diff upgraded to a giken by Puddymod around this time last year, I asked him the same question on what he recommended for diff mounts.
He replied: "75A and nothing more derlin is to much! Try just the 2 front mounts with the 75A and leave the rear mounts alone."
I am still on stock mounts.
He replied: "75A and nothing more derlin is to much! Try just the 2 front mounts with the 75A and leave the rear mounts alone."
I am still on stock mounts.
Trending Topics
There is an old thread about this. krazik did it to his old race car and reported no problems. I forgot exactly what he used but you can purchase liquid urethane from Macmaster-Carr. I haven't done mine yet (bought a set of used mounts) and bought 80A which is rated "hard." I've been wondering if 80 is too much. The next one they have is 60 which is medium hard. You can probably find 75 online somewhere.
so ive owned my S for all of 4 days, but right from the get go i am noticing what im pretty sure is rear diff clunk on spirited shifting (the chassis has 175k miles on it). based on the message passed on from puddydad above (i was told the car i bought has one of his diffs), are the front mounts for the rear diff the ones that do the most work?
in a little searching it looks like hardrace might be the only company to sell the front and rear mounts separately? is there really any huge benefit over stock besides possible longevity?
in a little searching it looks like hardrace might be the only company to sell the front and rear mounts separately? is there really any huge benefit over stock besides possible longevity?







