HI - Thought these pics might be of interest with all the ducting discussion recently...

(4) 10350-12 ALUM FLANGE 3" $8.75 ea x 4 = $35.00
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appa...ductflanges.php

(8') 05-29812 AERODUCT CAT-12 (3" I.D.) $7.90/ft x 8 ft = $63.20
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php

Basically this is a tin snip/dremel job...you'll also need some misc. bolts, some epoxy.

1) Dremel out "intakes" on bumper (pix are for an AP1)
2) Make the intakes - cut out styrene plates (white parts) to fit intakes (scrap sheet metal/ABS/plexi/or wood will work too). Cut a hole in the plates. Squish/flatten two of the flanges slightly until they'll fit on the back of the plates AND pass thru the hole you just made in the bumper.

3) Epoxy the flanges to the back of the plates and spray bomb (your choice of color). Set the intakes aside for installation into the bumper later...

4) Remove the brake Heatshield screws and cut off the back (rear most) "ring" of the heatshield with tin snips. MAKE SURE to preserve the three mounting holes on the Heatshield.

5) Wiggle the heatshield off (you'll need to twist it alittle)
6) Position the round flange on the back of the heatshield (sorry I don't have a pic of this) NEAR the OEM air "intake" shape (looks like 2-3 small rectangular holes on a bulge). Mark the circle with a sharpie. Tin snip a hole in the heatshield to let the air in near the EYE of the rotor (don't need to trim the FULL circle out, just a "D" shape or half circle is sufficient, can open it up later if you need more air).
7) Mark the flange too (since it's too big in some areas) and trim off excess flange so that it sits fully on the heatshield (no overhang, looks cleaner + keeps clearance to wheel)
8) After you cut out the OEM air "intake" shape on the heatshield, the heatshield will NOT be flat (has lots of funny shapes stamped into it). I pounded this down with a hammer on a piece of wood to make sure the flange had a flat area to mate to. Spray bomb with Hi Temp paint to prevent rust.

9) Drill three holes in the flange/heatshield and attach the flange to the heatshield with 3 small button head screws/deformed lock nuts
10) Reinstall heatshield onto knuckle.
11) Remove clips holding front portion of wheel well liner and mark/cut hole in bottom/inboard portion of wheel well liner

12) Install intake+flange into bumper, attach hose with hose clamp.


13) String hose thru wheel well hole, attach to heatshield flange.

Check to see if wheel won't get tangled up with hose at full lock L/R, then tiewrap.

I "squished" the hose about "15%" or so around the sway bar since my 255/40-17's on 17x9+63's just touch the hose there.

No Fade
No rotor cracking (although will still develop the usual hairlines on surface)
Extended Rotor life (>2x)

May want to order a few new Wheel Well Liner clips (I broke several taking them out).

Estimated time ~6hrs (some light fabrication and weekend inertia)
PM if you have questions!
Good luck!

Mike

 

Props for being smart and using the k-nuts on the back side of the shroud instead of Home Depot's specialty crap hardware.

Has the wear between the inboard and outboard pad been even?

 

Damn Mike, thanks for taking the time to write this up. I already got my holes cut out, just need to tie everything together.

 

Is the back the best place to set the duct , It looks really good nice write up ill be doing mine next week . Thanks

 

Hi, Mike, nice write up Remember seeing those on your car at TH.Your running stock calipers/rotors with up graded pads and fluid, dat right?

 

great write up DipStick

just a few comments,
- since you didn't take the full advantage of using 3" hose buy cutting "D" shape on the splash guard, why not just use 2.5" hose fore better clearance.

- i ran my hose to the bottom for less bending of the hose. i always see people run to the top.

- i duct tape the hose, then ziptie, then ductape on top of that to prevent the ziptie cutting through the hose from abrasion.

here's my setup - no clearance issue with 17x9 + 63 wheels.

http://gotspeed.110mb.com/2001_s2000_brakeducts.php

 

FastJack, yes, stock rotors with Carbotech XP10/XP8 and RBF600 fluid.

hondaf1, yes, can actually use smaller hose if you have clearance problems.

However, I did the 3" hose because it fits the front bumper opening perfectly and then I'd have a large column of air to start with (pi x R squared)

If the cooling was ineffective for my pad/tire/driving style, my plan was to open the "D" shaped hole up more and more (but this is unnecessary at this moment...)

However, that exposes more rotor face to the air. According to previous track junkie R&D on this, you want to keep the air aimed at the rotor eye (where the fins are) to keep the air moving into the rotor from the center then out the edges.

BTW, one other benefit...there's less brake dust spoooge on the wheels

 

Mike: excellent job.

I recommend you have zip ties inside vaccum hoses, see above pic.

pic is from a Miata, not s2k.

 

im going to do this should i do both front and rear or just front .

 

Ah, William, that looks clean with the zip tie inside the hose...I'll try that.

E_N, yes, inboard and outboard pad wear are even (same as before the ducts, actually)

SILAP1, I haven't noticed the RR brakes fading since the weight transfer puts most of the braking load on the front. I have run two 25min Laguna Seca sessions back to back with these ducts and had no problem with fade. Previously without the ducts, I'd get fade about 2/3 of the way into one session.

I'd say ducting the RR isn't worth it for the typical 25 min. track session...but, perhaps some endurance racers can chime in or someone with actual F/R rotor temp data...