First, I apologize for posting about a non-track S2000. But, this group seems to be the most knowledgeable about trailering a vehicle.

Does the car look tied down properly? I didn't wrap it around the control arms since I read on past threads that it can get bent. From my inspection prior to strapping it down, I thought of these holes as the same type of holes as on the S2000 where I use my r-hooks for tie down location. They seems strong enough.

I'm just a bit worried since I just read that you shouldn't tie down a vehicle to its body, but to un-sprung structure (wheel axes and a-arms).

As you can see from the picture below, the frame of the vehicle is minimal.

Isn't the way I have tied down the Fiat the same way that you are supposed to tie down an S2000 via the 4 tie down holes with R/T hooks?

I have 4 straps going to the front and 2 to the rear.

Going on a 500 mile trip.

Any thoughts or comments?

Thanks.





Under front bumper going to the front of trailer











Behind front wheel well going to the front of trailer









Front of rear wheel well going to the back of trailer

 

For me it's hard to say without knowing the vehicle and it being kind of hard to see what you did there. You can usually tie a vehicle down by the frame, some say not to but it's a question of wearing out your suspension faster, not safe trailering. And I think the risks are generally overstated.

Some of those mounting points don't look that beefy and I question whether it's really frame, not knowing that car at all, but if it's truly the frame I can't imagine them not being strong enough.

 

Those little black hooks in the factory tie down points = no bueno. One bump and those hooks will fall out. There are special J-hooks that go up and in that can't bump and shake loose. Yours look dependent on the tension.

 

I would post in whatever model car forum that is and ask for specific help with that type of car from people who have experience with that type of car.

 

Are there holes in the steel wheels, behind those hub caps? If so, just remove them, get some through wheel straps and be done. Much simpler

 

No holes on the wheel behind hub cap.

 

Well, if you cand find good frame attachments, there's always the wheel net option. Something like this:
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towing...am-Buckle-pair

 

Well, if you cand find good frame attachments, there's always the wheel net option. Something like this:
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towing...am-Buckle-pair
[/quote]

I looked into those, but I don't think my car is long enough to work due to locations of the trailer pockets.

What do you think?

 

They can work. I think the early concerns from the posters about not knowing the car are still valid. With a more modern car, I would have no issue using the wheel nets. I have basically the same trailer as you do. However, with an older car, I'm not sure how strong your current points of tie downs are nor if the vehicle would have any issues from using wheel nets on that type of trailer (since it will slight pull on the wheels outward once tightened).

 

Since you have some strap redundancy I think you're good to go. Be sure and check everything after driving a few miles because the car will 'settle' into position. Make sure the car is out of gear and release the parking brake to release any tension between the front and rear straps then reapply the brake for the haul.

I'm not a fan of wheel nets or anything that pulls on the wheels or suspension. Like you I use J or R hooks in the frame holes with a backup strap front and rear for longer hauls.


I would check the straps after about 5 to 10 miles then do it again after another 30 then it should be good for the rest of the 500 mile trip.

That's a very cool little car.